I do know this. When I turn my 77" OLED LG off, it goes, "click" off, then 10 to 30 seconds later, it seems like another power event occurs and there is another "click" as the unit remains off. Here's the deal. I have a large stereo system with two subs hooked up with the tv (for surround, if needed)...and if I turn my stereo on before the second click; the xfinity cable box blows up and needs to reset before the tv is operable again. This second click occurs regardless whether I have my stereo hooked up to it. Although I don't have my Samsung OLED hooked up to to a stereo, I don't hear this second event/"click, so I assume I would not have this issue with the Samsung. I do not know if other brands have this second "click"/power shutoff or whatever it is.
LG vs. Sony 65” OLED
I’m moving and about to buy one of these TVs in the $1300 range and wondering if either is strongly favored for any reasons? Sounds like the LG might be brighter/better for HDR but Sony may have better blacks/color and may be a little smoother/more film like with better upsampling and possibly better sound (I’ll be using my HT speakers for movies so not a huge deal there) but I dunno. I won’t have an overly bright room (although glare could possibly be an issue so that could be important if one is better there) nor will I be doing much gaming so this is mainly for TV/movies, which kinda points me marginally to the Sony but love to hear thoughts. My other main concern is reliability where both seem good but LG seems to have the edge there, which is not a small thing.
Also, I’ll be using the Ethernet connection from my router (that I’m buying separately rather than renting the crap from the cable company) instead of Wi-Fi so if anyone has found an Ethernet cable that’s made a significant improvement in the <$200 price range I’d be very interested in that as well. Thanks!
- ...
- 41 posts total
Which TV is best? A general overview. This will never be known unless you are prepared to educate yourself with the finer details of picture quality. All you need is your remote control. After experimenting and tweaking you may be relieved to find you have “upgraded” your picture, and no longer think a new TV is required.
You will never know what your current TV is capable of unless you learn how to use all the options available for fine tuning your set in the TV menu options.
NEVER just buy the best looking set with the best looking picture you see in a showroom setting. There are ways to improve your picture resolution and sound if you bother to experiment.
My first rule of thumb with any set l would like to purchase is to first ask the sales person for a black check….. If the overall screen test exhibits any grey areas or clouding, reject that model and move on to another example. No complete black background will compromise picture resolution.
Back home do final set up using live broadcasts like a snooker match (colour of balls), or a tennis match (to check the net clarity), and best of all F1 for speed and picture motion. Be armed also with the best Blurays you own with fast CGI moving images to test the set the correct level of motion processing required. |
@sextantcv4 My buddy had the last 60” Panny Plasma and about a year ago got a Sony Bravia 7 microLED TV and thinks it is much better all around. I was curious how it compares to the similarly-priced Sony OLED Bravia 8 I just bought and saw this review that I found very interesting in comparing the two technologies and their relative strengths and differences. Anyway, just thought I’d mention it as he had a similar TV to you and found the Bravia 8 to be a significant upgrade, and he loved his Panny Plasma (he’s a very knowledgeable and critical videophile BTW) so he doesn’t say this lightly. FWIW. |
@soix thank you for posting the video! Looks like I should definitely keep in mind the micro LED option |
- 41 posts total

