Power Distributors: Shunyata Delta-X, AudioQuest Niagara 5000, and PS Audio PowerPlant 12

Thanks @kennyc  The Electric Coop upgraded some equipment at the sub-station. We had some power outages over a few days after that they claim was not related, but who knows. My electrician says his customers are pleased with the upgrade (he lives in the neighborhood too). My new dedicated 20A line is in, but the isolated ground line is not. Turns out there is poor grounding for the house (met old code standards, but not current). He will upgrade the grounding for the house next week and also add the IG for the 20A line. I have two Hubbell IG5362 (recommended by Shunyata) for 20A line arriving later this week. We decided to put four outlets on the line so I could connect the Furman, the Delta-X, and the Pass amp if I want too bypass any filter for the power amp. 

The power has been very stable (119-121V) according to both the Furman and the Panamax (just using the Panamax to monitor the power with nothing plugged into it). 

The Delta-X should arrive later this week with an Alpha-X XC power cord. I went ahead and ordered an Alpha-X NR to upgrade one of my other cables (probably the DH Labs Extra Power, but maybe one of the Synergistic Pink cables).

I feel better about the power coming into the house now. This potential crisis motivated me to upgrade the power distribution. I will use the Furman Voltage regulator in some fashion since the Delta-X does not have enough outlets for my system. This is a huge upgrade for equipment that deserves better power delivery. I will provide updates once everything is in place, then again after some time for me to adjust to, and understand, the changes. I will also have lots of options with how the power is set up.

@thriftyaudio 

"The electrician will install a new grounded 20A line to the specification that Shunyata Research specified (much more affordable than I was expecting) next week as well."

Why the 20 amps when everything in your system is 15 amps, they'll never ever even come close to drawing the 15 amps anyway! I had a MAC7200 that has a huge power supply and could generate in excess of 300 watts per channel if I wanted it to which I never did and into very inefficient speakers I'd sometimes hit 80 dB peaks along with all my sources and accessories running I'd only draw .9 amps. Currently with my tube integrated and phono stage and everything else I still can't draw more than 1.3 amps. Your reasoning doesn't quite live up to "thriftyaudio"!

faustuss

Why the 20 amps when everything in your system is 15 amps, they'll never ever even come close to drawing the 15 amps anyway

The larger gauge required for the higher amperage rating also offers the advantage of less voltage drop. That's especially helpful with large amplifiers.

@faustuss You make an excellent point and raise a valid concern. For over 45 years I have wanted a dedicated line for my stereo after taking an Audio Physics class in college. I was either not in a position to afford it, or the line was an inconvenience, or both.

When we moved a few months ago I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated line, but it was a low priority with all the other challenges and expenses associated with moving. We were adding two 50A lines for the kiln and hot tub, so I asked the electrician about a dedicated IG 20A line and he said where I wanted it would be relatively easy, but I still was not convinced to do it. Then the wide voltage swings occurred multiple times. Over time my electrician identified multiple issues. The first was one he was aware of with the utility company (hopefully corrected although the neighborhood had another power outage this AM).

The second was the quality of some of the electrical lines in the house. We had to have the kitchen completely rewired to bring it up to code. The line that I wanted upgraded was questionable so the electrician thought it was a good idea to replace it considering the all the stereo equipment. He did not think the 20A was needed, but the cost between running a 20A and a 15A was minimal. He also did not think the isolated ground was necessary, but I insisted. As he was looking at installing it he discovered the grounding for the whole house was not adequate, so to have an IG for the 20A line the whole house grounding would need to be brought up to code. He felt this was absolutely necessary, but would not have been identified without the request for the 20A IG request.

I believe my Panamax power conditioner was near the end of it's useful life. While researching power conditioners I was initially drawn to the PS Audio Power Plant 12 or 20. That led me to look at other power conditioners. Ultimately other units appeared to meet my needs better. The Shunyata Delta-X is perhaps overkill, but I like to splurge from time to time too. The Furman 2400 is my safety net. The Delta-X does not have enough outlets for my system, plus the voltage regulation may or may not impact the output of the Delta -X. I will experiment with the Delta-X through the Furman (original plan with both), and separate (with power upgrades from the utility company and my electrician). The deal on the Delta-X and the two Alpha-X cables while not cheap does fall into my 'thrifty', as in big discounts.

Finally, as @faustuss pointed out the 20A line provides plenty, if not excessive, headroom for my system. Perhaps I will upgrade the power amp in the future? Doubt it, but never say never. The Furman 2400 requires a 20A plug and the Shunyata specifies one.

In this hobby everything is relative. I am enjoying it. Thanks for the input. It allowed me an opportunity to put all my reasons for the upgrade in one place.

@thriftyaudio 

Glad I gave you some place to vent!

@cleeds 

Voltage drop would never be a concern unless you want to go deaf! Big power amplifiers never reach their maximum power output into very low resistances for the very reason you mentioned, the powerline sag. A huge amp with a maximum 20 amp draw on a 20 amp mains is going to behave just like a 15 amp one on a 15 amp mains.

@thriftyaudio your Panamax 5300 is none the worse for wear after 20 years since there are very few active components in the thing except for the MOV on the AC input and if the unit ever delt with a surge large enough to open it, it would be dead. The only other active component is the one that disengages the power when yours goes out requiring you to turn the unit back on manually when your neighborhood's power is restored. Personally, I think you'll be hard pressed to find a power conditioner as well thought out ergonomically and with as many useful AC receptacles on it, especially the fact that they are oriented with the ground lug on top which prevents heavy power cords from inching their way out of the socket. It also has the simple dimmable voltage and amp indicators on the front. As well, you can easily replace it if it breaks for less than $600 or if it takes a hit eventually and it isn't completely fried you can replace the MOV and you're back in business. It's nice to be extravagant but pragmatic is better.