Which Cartrudge For My Upcoming Technics 1200 GR 2 Turnable - Looking at Ortofon 2m Black

A stronger Sound with SL 1200 GR? Best Choice: Denon DL 103 (MC), a lot of punch and Dynamics. Only 300 Euro, I use two of it. One on SL 1200 GR, the other on Denon DP 3000 NE. In both cases great sound, not only with electronic tracks.

@audphile1 

Yes, IMO 2.0mv (not 2 v) is too low for OP’s wife’s system. In my 1st post here, I wrote:

"AT745xML is only $329". ... "The signal strength is lower: 3.7mv. That is average, normal for MM, however IF you want more volume, from a weaker amount of gain, 5.0mv is the better choice." (Ortofon 2m Black LVB 250)

Less gain can be the amount of gain within the phono stage, (i.e. resulting in a lower/higher line level signal strength that leaves the preamp section) AND eventually, the amount of power/watts sent to the speakers. IF I had 30 wpc I would PREFER a stronger signal from the cartridge. Always keeping in mind, some amps make less noise and/or distortion when the attenuator is not near or at full volume.

We listen mostly at less than 5 watts/channel (watch a big McIntosh Meter) (so 30 wpc is a lot) but instantaneous peaks need a lot of instantaneous power. You have to change the McIntosh meter’s scale to get the needle to move at typical listening levels.

The Luxman 595’s published specifications, gain, s/n, ...: phono gain specs: are based on a signal no lower than 2.5mv. 

3.7 mv is plenty for an input with 2.5mv sensitivity. 2.0mv is not, and I personally don’t consider it HO (yes, it is HO compared to 0.4mv of Hana ML). 2.0mv is below OP’s amp’s published input sensitivity of 2.5 mv. too low for that unit’s performance specifications, but I was thinking too low compared to other cartridges with stronger signal strength, which is why I mentioned the difference. 

IF they are playing with the volume knob low now, I would risk 3.7mv but I would not risk 2.0mv

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A cartridge output signal strength directly effects resulting volume (i.e. your volume knob will need to be adjusted more or less for each cartridge).

my experience is: when I change/compare cartridges, mine and my friends: without changing my system’s volume, the volume changes for each cartridge. The change in volume is due directly to the cartridge’s signal strength.

When I change the impedance settings for LOMC cartridges, (my SUT has 4 optional windings) (various X Factors) the volume changes with each winding as the resulting signal output increases or decreases.

I typically select something like the Eurythmics, which everyone has heard on my system. It has a variety of sounds (like them or not, they are revealing) and you have to get Annie Lennox’s voice ’right’. Then off to a friend’s selected and very familiar content.

I drop two arms/cartridges, one slightly behind the other, so when I switch my SUT’s input, it will play what we just heard seconds ago. I move my selector from phono to a silent input, no sound when I change to a different cartridge, then back to phono.

1st, we make temporary pencil marks around the big volume knob of my Cayin Integrated Amp, to get the resulting volumes close so our comparisons are not effected by volume changes. When I change the input to one of my 3 arms, I also move the volume to the pencil mark. Takes only several seconds.

AT microline does minimize surface noise, which was almost painful with an elliptical Ortofon.  I give a +1 for the AT, especially for the price.

I have yet to update my profile, so no pictures yet, but just jumped into the analog side with a VPI Prime Scout. I paired it with a Hana ML and the EAT e-glow Petite phono stage. Very good and warm sounding setup. What I didn't realize was how important it is to get the records clean before playing them. I was getting failure of sound, like a fuzzy radio station, thought it was the phono stage having issues. There are a lot of settings on this phono stage, and the benefit was that it is easy to change on the fly to find the best sounding loading and gain within the ranges recommended. Well, as I was trying to see if it was something to do with the phono stage, I was reaching over to adjust a toggle switch and knuckled my stylus while it was in the locked position. Bent the F out of it. Damn! So I tried to bend it back, tried playing it, sounded great again, but after a bit it would lose tracking. Carefully bent it again...kept playing great, but would not keep a groove. Ok, Cantilever busted. Question, why is it sounding so good. I got a deal on a replacement cartridge (Upscale gave me $380 off a new one for sending back the old one) I installed it, played three sides and again, got to the failing radio signal sound. This time I inspected the needle and it had a pillow of dust on it. Carefully I cleaned it and played again - beautiful! Ok, so I just spent $800 or so because I didn't clean the damn album - it was right out of a sealed - brand new sleeve. Never been played before. 

I did my research, even brand new albums need to be cleaned first. (never did this as a kid with my JVC linear tracking TT). I borrowed my buddies VPI record cleaning machine, I'm about half way through the small collection I have, keeping my needle cleaned, and listening to the beautiful sound of this gear.

Now evaluating what record cleaning machine to get.

Thanks... I have been studying this thread. It seems like I am stuck in a situation where I need the cart to be 3.7mv or greater. Just to mention... my Luxman 595 is a Class A if that helps. 

I looked up the old turntable my family had and it was a Fisher MT-6360. Would the Ortofon Black 250 LVB have as much energy and power as the Fisher cart did? And woutd the Black 250 LVB be to bright? 

Also, I am confused... AI said to have power and energy in a cart it should be MM but the Hana is MC and it would have the same power and energy (with the exception of the low mv)?

Side note: AI said the Fisher had and an output voltage of 3.5 mV to 4.0 mV.

Also, would a Nagaoka cart be good?