Elliott nailed it, if you can't hear it, it is not important.
I would tend to agree, but some of the numbers are high enough it's difficult to believe that no one could hear it. Depending on the amount and band of the frequency deviation, I wonder if even reviewers (and certainly the average listener) don't realize that they are hearing it or perhaps it is perceived as some sort of euphonics or "voicing".
A lot of the tools used to measure this at the retail level are inadequate IMO. Most of them high pass filter the signal to remove record eccentricity effects & tone arm contributions and are upper BW limited, both of which will mask serious problems with the drive.

