In my experience it's not just the chip, but rather the entire circuit. Output stage plays a huge part, power supply is really important, plus digital filters, plus any digital receiver process (even if the ESS handles a lot of it, USB still requires its own solution), and much more.
I've heard a bunch of devices based around the ES9039 Pro chip and many of them sound quite different from one another. My favorite is the Eversolo DMP A10 as well as the DA Art D39. Those both have a more full bodied tone that I prefer. I didn't care for the models I heard from Topping, SMSL, Shanling, or Gustard.
Your Esoteric might have an older DAC chip but definitely has a more robust power supply and other aspects that make it preferable over the new stuff. I'm not surprised at all.