Ethernet

@maprik - there’s a German DIY website at ethernet.sound.com run by Eric who has done comprehensive testing on source components way upstream and made a wonderful discovery which should be shared and is currently spreading quick on the internet. The original posts begin here - you’ll have to translate from the German.

 https://ethernet-sound.com/tp-link-tl-wr902ac-im-akku-modus-100ige-isolierung/

It’s all about WiFi performing at a higher level than hardwired LAN, through the use of a super low power super cheap Tplink pocket travel router and the benefit that WiFi brings through the creation of an isolating air gap between the noise-filled upstream components of modem and home router. The vital thing is the use of a power bank or battery supply to power the tplink, so as not to reintroduce electrical noise into the isolated circuit. In any case, it’s been picked up by the US DIY community, and keithc at WBF has started a thread on how to configure a basic set up for the use of the tplink in client mode - check it out ; ) -

https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/review-the-best-yet-most-affordable-network-switch-tplink-wr902ac.41708/

just to ally any fears of a big spend, the baseline upgrade of just tplink wr902 and accompanying power bank is about the greatest value to dollar delta around - I spent the equivalent of less than USD75 on the pocket router and romoss pea40 pro power bank, and it’s raised the sound realism of my already very high performing system by a good margin. Reports vary depending on how well one has already sorted/isolated their upstream noise, but regardless of where anyone is in their system build, everyone who has tried this WiFi fix has found conclusive improvement. 
Keep in mind the quality of USB A to micro cable between power bank and pocket router matters, and don’t forget to take the power bank off the power outlet when listening to what should be a big difference. Enjoy!

In friendship - kevin

@kevn I have the TP-Link with the LHY battery lps. My wifi signal is stronger(10Xs) from my router thats in my basement, than the TP=Link's output. I have to get a USB A/micro cable & try that. The TP-Link is hardwired  to my router, so there should be no issues there. YMMV

@danmar123 - great, now reconfigure your tplink 902 to 2.4hz in client mode, WiFi to it from your home router, and then direct hardwire that tplink to your server or streamer - results might well stun you 😉 - many have gotten rid of their switches and everything else in between. I’ve kept mine because of the tremendous job they do maintaining signal integrity to no loss. But then again, my isolation router and switch are encased in solid copper for the purpose.

The issue here is not if your WiF signal is powerful enough - in digital source, too much power corrupts and introduces noise into the signal - the whole idea of the low powered tplink is to contain that power and subsequent noise - just give it a shot, you have nothing to lose and an entire new world to gain ; )

In friendship - kevin

I’m fortunate that my router is about 6 feet away from my streamer. Fortunate because I live in a mid-century ranch with aluminum siding. My home is where WIFI comes to die, multiple mesh units and all. 
I don’t know if I can hear the difference, but in my case, a cable connection is preferable due to bandwidth and dropout issues.

After running Ethernet to all my equipment I also employed one of these iFi/Silentpower LAN silencer devices. I put it between the router and the first switch in my chain.  It works as advertised and made an audible difference in the system.  
SilentPower LAN Purifier Pro