Vinyl foibles


I'd like to make this a space to ask questions about vinyl problems you're having trouble solving. I have a lot of questions, but I think it's better if we ask one at a time, or else I think we could have long lists.

Here is my first question. I have a Degritter album washer. I think it works great. I wash all my albums once, but not before I play them again and again.  Somehow, though, and this includes new albums no one else has ever touched, they pick up ticks and what sounds like scratches. I rewash the album and it sounds like new again. I only touch albums by their edges. How do inner bands become so dirty that sometimes a smudge can last a minute or more?  I've been playing vinyl albums for more years than many of you have lived, and I have learned to be very careful with vinyl. Are there vinyl gremlins haunting my album shelves?

audio-b-dog

Thanks to @audio-b-dog  for starting this thread.  Sorry to take it back to the static subject, but I really relate to the OP’s issues and what he has faced with static. I live in CO and the air is dry and the furnace dries it out even more in the winter – so much so that I cannot even think of playing a record.  I too have a VPI, Prime Signature with a Fatboy and will look at the suggestion of using plastic screws on the finger-lift.  I had a static charge that when I touched the finger-lift it blew out my Cadenza Black and my PSA Steller Phono Pre.  I didn’t realize that the Cadenza was toast, so after PS Audio replaced the complete guts of the Pre, and when I got it back the cart blew the Pre’s board out again.  The Cadenza must have shorted or something internally.  So, PS Audio replaced it again (and so many thanks for them – they did this under warranty!), and I replaced the Cadenza with my 2M Black.  Still haven’t repaired or replaced the Cadenza .

 

After all this, I have since tried to remember to ground myself before touching the finger-lift because I still get a TON of static.  I use Mo-Fi sleeves, I use my Furutech DStat III, an Audioquest Carbon brush before every play and still get static pops and a mess of dust on the record, even after cleaning on the VPI RCM.   I will try the Hudson brush linked earlier.  Great thread, if nothing more than having someone I can relate to in my struggles.

@audio-b-dog 

@nickthepet 

In the UK. Much rain in winter and high humidity all year. No air con or wood burning fires, no pets and a non smoker. Just a few points to clarify why l may have very low concerns with clicks, pops and noise.

My records have never been on a record cleaning machine, in a degritter or bath. All l may daily use is a velvet hand held pad, or micro-fibre brush. No anti-static guns which l found never audibly made a difference.

One thing that has remained constant is the use of, very occasionally an invention that was very popular in the 70s. A Pixall mkII Record Roller Cleaner. I have found ample supplies of replacement rollers (even from the States) to keep my records clean. I use on demand when l think the dust build up is too great. They are lint based and can even remove finger marks on used records l have bought, and can remove some contaminates out of the qroove if spot cleaning is applied. Coupled with low static lined record inner sleeves if the ones in there when bought are just paper, help maintain my records in good condition. 
 

One other consideration l take into account is playing all my vinyl with my turntables covers down, but that’s an even bigger bone of contention on here. I am sure, taking the music foibles away from the debate, covers down do make sense with less exposure to dust attraction.

 

@nickthepet 

You have the same turntable as I do. I used to have the VPI TNT 3. I love the sound of the VPI with their big motors and heavy platters, but shocks are a problem. When I had the TNT 3, I called VPI and talked to Harry, the founder. He said I should ground the turntable by putting a wire underneath that round metal thing under the turntable and ground it. I'm not sure it did any good.

The Fatboy arm has helped. I used to have the JMW Memorial arm and it was metal. More metal! But using the plastic screws, which came with my turntable, has really helped to tone down the shocks. I might get the slightest shock now, but nothing that would make me take my finger off the arm lift.

@mylogic 

The Degritter is a very good thing. It works well and does not damage the record. There are no harsh brushes, just air bubbles in water shot at high speed to degunk the grooves. It works very well at getting most of the clicks off. If you have a record that is absolutely trashed, or even a little trashed, it can't do anything about that. Most of the clicks I pick up are gunk in the grooves. As I have the Degritter longer, I would estimate that I need to clean records I play a lot once a year. 

@audio-b-dog 

Thanks for the Degritter info. I may go down the route one day.

With regard to the Pixall roller, the MKII must be used as the original dried out quickly, and those on sale today on eBay are useless. Because it is a dry roller some people may think it would impart static onto the record surface, but it doesn’t. The roll is slightly tacky and that’s what lifts off contaminates. You simply peel back the used section when a new surface is required. It’s hard to explain how useful a tool it is, and no one can be opinionated on its effectiveness unless they have used one.

Thanks @audio-b-dog  I bought the TT from TMR and no plastic screws with it.  I'll have to hunt some down.  Anything would help.