Vinyl foibles

I see several things in play.  First, as @whart mentioned, foot wear matters.  Even in Florida where humidity abounds, I will develop more static if I'm in socks, rather than barefoot.  Second, I have a Nottingham TT and it used to have HORRIBLE static where the record had to be peeled off the platter. I purchased a achromat from Funk and all that pesky static went away.  Third, consider the use of a Ronxs lighter.  It is cheap and works as well, if not better, than my Furutech and is cheap-check it out on Amazon.  I use Tiger cloth, also available on Amazon, instead of a brush-it works great.  I have a DeGritter and will notice, as you have, occasional increase in pops and ticks on clean records.  Clean it after play-it will sound better next time and you don't have to wait.  Or, if side one is too pop and tick laden, clean it and listen to something else until it's done.  Usually the quick cycle is all that is necessary at that time.

One of the first audio tweaks I ever heard about was from a dealer back in the early 1970s. He rubbed the top of a turntable cover-- remember this was in the days when you played records with the turntable cover lowered – with an anti-static cloth

. He then placed the tone arm on the record and closed the lid. The sound that emanated from the turntable was terrible because the magnetic force he created on the plastic lid attracted the cartridge, lowering its tracking weight just enough to create a god-awful cacophony of unwanted noise.  What a fun hobby this is!

every single one of you here needs help. If, perhaps you aren’t beyond any help now. Imagine any normal person watching you do all these things before and after playing a record.*

AI so far is a bigger scam than crypto. I have yet to see one answer that’s less than 50% BS...

*not me, I am not normal either

Just keep in mind that static charge is never defeated permanently.  You can totally discharge the surface of an LP and in the next instant charge it up maximally without realizing it, by handling it usually or also by inserting it into a paper sleeve or other sleeve that is a good electron or negative ion donor. Orthomead has it right. I own a static charge meter. My direct evidence is that the Zerostat is all you need to dissipate charge.  Also, decades ago the Shure Corporation showed among many other things that when you discharge one side of an LP, the charge migrates to the other side.  So that can account for seemingly discharged LPs that then stick to the mat. It doesn't necessarily mean that charge re-accumulated on the up side.

@audio-b-dog As a defence offered up from myself for the content of the PACVR  authored by @antinn, the content is Technical and Straight Forward.

Some who read it will get what is a proposal immediately and others will need assistance, as the PACVR is a Text Book.

I am one who made inquiries and needed a teacher, where the author Neil stepped in on many occasions for both myself and others to assist with the inquirers  attaining a clearly understood grasp of the requirements.

Outside of the Solutions Purchased to make the mixtures, I have approx' £50 spent on ancillaries to support the Manual Cleaning Method, which has proven the best I have ever encountered, which I now refer to as a purification of the Vinyl which is very audible. (The cleanliness of the Substrate in contact with the Stylus is able to be perceived as part of he structure of the produced End Sound).

The digital weigh scale I purchased was the most important tool used to proportion the solutions bought, and get the cleaning mixtures extremely accurate.

Much of the other advisories put forward in the PAVCR are possibly the cheapest options to utilise, have a look at the Static Control Method.  

For the onlooker in to this Thread, offered through this Analog Section of the Agon Forum, is the PAVCR. This is a free download document, that really does educate on caring for the Vinyl used for replaying recorded music.