Vinyl foibles


I'd like to make this a space to ask questions about vinyl problems you're having trouble solving. I have a lot of questions, but I think it's better if we ask one at a time, or else I think we could have long lists.

Here is my first question. I have a Degritter album washer. I think it works great. I wash all my albums once, but not before I play them again and again.  Somehow, though, and this includes new albums no one else has ever touched, they pick up ticks and what sounds like scratches. I rewash the album and it sounds like new again. I only touch albums by their edges. How do inner bands become so dirty that sometimes a smudge can last a minute or more?  I've been playing vinyl albums for more years than many of you have lived, and I have learned to be very careful with vinyl. Are there vinyl gremlins haunting my album shelves?

audio-b-dog

Back to the record cleaning, here's what I do on my limited budget (and works very well):

After putting the record on the turntable and tightening the clamp, I spray some distilled water on a rolled up piece of corduroy about 5" wide and spin the record at least once around; then, I move the corduroy roll a bit to lightly dry the record before lightly taking a soft brush to the stylus a couple times.

I do this religiously every single time I play a record; it's much cheaper than an expensive cleaner and works very well for me.

First, to control static I have two devices: a Zerostat and a Furutech destat III.  They both work, the difference is like the difference between manual steering and power steering.  If you can afford it, the Furutech is worth the money, but get one or the other.  As for your question about brightness, if the problem is confined to just a few records that you rarely play, my advice is to not lose any sleep over it.  If you are finding yourself annoyed frequently, then you want to look at the loading on your cartridge.  I am sure VPI publishes recommendations for the Shyla or you could just call them and ask.  VPI sets themselves apart from a lot of companies by actually answering their telephone and having people to talk to who know a thing or two about their products.  A quite refreshing phenomenon IMHO.  Anyway, if you explain to them what you are hearing, pretty much exactly as you have done here, they can help you tame the cartridge down a smidge.  Please note that new electronics are not required to make this minor adjustment.  What you own is all first rate stuff that can sound stellar when adjusted to perfection.

@billstevenson 

Thanks for the feedback. I own the Zerostat and use it, but some records have more static than I can get rid of. I have my phono preamp properly grounded so it doesn't pass any along. I have the Shyla pretty well dialed in. I'm, happy with the Pass preamps. I think they're about as close to tubes as I'm going to get in solid state. And you're right about VPI. They are good folk. I've dealt with the father and the son and the mother over the many years I've owned VPI. 

I strongly suggest your get a Furutech.  I just refurbished my VPI HW-19 MKIII along with the HW-17, both bought new in 1986.  They still do excellent service for me at our NH home, from which we just returned.  In my main system I have an HW-40 and a recently acquired MW-1 cyclone.  

@billstevenson 

I will look into the Furutech. My accountant says my stereo open to buy is closed for a while, but I'll put it on my list. This year I've purchased new Sonus Faber Olympica Nova speaakers, a Moon 280D streamer, and the phono preamp. Thanks for the suggestion.