I agree with many of the above; Coda No 8. If you check with various dealers, you will often find a great discount.
I use a Coda S5.5 in my main stereo. I also own a highly regarded modern class D design. I prefer the Coda by a wide margin.
High current amp search
Hello, so as the title says, I'm looking for a 200+ wats amp (8ohm) that will double it's power down to 2 ohms but importantly also check all the audiophile boxes so strong, articulate, fast bass, smooth resolving mid-range and extended non fatiguing highs. It's proving to be rather difficult because hardly any manufacturers list output into 2ohms. Budget is around 4000$ so I'm looking at mostly used. Besides something like the Krell FPB 300/400 CX which can be had for that much , what else can be recommended?
@deep_333 why thank you so much for the suggestion about what I should plaster on my speakers, in case I forget I'm an idiot. Btw the speakers I own don't get anywhere near 1 or even 2 ohms. 2.7ohms is the minimum and it's in the bass. High current is a prerequisite. |
@lukaszwk Apparently the math I showed earlier was ignored. Put plainly, a ’high current’ amp is at best, slang. Current does not exist without Voltage. ’High Current’ thus implies ’high Voltage’ too and thus high power. There are plenty of amps that meet this description. But you also specified
That doesn’t always come with a powerhouse amp. For example, what you are asking for has been a description of our OTLs (OTLs are tube amps that have no output transformer) many times over the last 5 decades we’ve been making them, but I’m sure most would agree that they are not powerhouse amps and only 2 of our models can drive 2 Ohms (our class D amp can though). One of the things that can affect how musical (’smooth resolving mid-range and extended non fatiguing highs’) an amplifier is can be seen in the Frequency vs Distortion curve, which many amp manufacturers don’t publish. A lot of solid state amps have a very flat curve up to some frequency such as 1KHz where distortion rises. This is often caused by the feedback decreasing at that frequency due to a lack of gain and bandwidth to support the gain of the amp and the feedback it has (the two together are known as ’loop gain’). If an amp has this property (many solid state amps do) the distortion at 7KHz can be quite a lot higher than it is at 1KHz (and so may not show up in the THD spec since that is usually measured at 1KHz or less)! This can cause higher ordered harmonics to be unmasked (masking is a human hearing principle in which louder sounds mask the presence of quieter sounds). FWIW if you’ve wondered why zero feedback amps exist, the above two paragraphs explain the main reason. A zero feedback amp can have a flat distortion vs frequency curve across the entire audible spectrum. The ear uses higher ordered harmonics to sense sound pressure (which is easily proven with simple test equipment) so the ear is keenly sensitive to them has it has a roughly 120dB range. This is why solid state amps over the decades have garnered a reputation for harshness and brightness and is why tube amps are still around in high end audio.
This statement is false BTW, many people do and pay a lot more than your budget! The reason why is they simply haven’t heard better- yet. This does not mean all solid state amps are bright. So you have to be careful. However my advice, if you want that ’articulate’ bit you mentioned, is still to stay away from low impedance/hard to drive speakers simply because any amp driving them will be less articulate due to higher distortion. So this statement
will end in tears since if the speaker isn’t an easy load it will be a compromise. One other thing:
A speaker that is easier to drive and is also full range might be rather large. But I know of plenty of speakers that are larger than mine and don’t go any deeper, yet my speakers (flat to 20Hz) are also 98dB. We can rule out resolution as a problem with easy to drive speakers. We also know they will be more dynamic owing to less thermal compression. So I am curious what you think those ’drawbacks’ are.
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@lukaszwk It's the speaker designer who was the idiot when his speaker dipped under 2 ohm, not you. You were always very smart. So, when you return his idiot speaker back to his garage/operations hub to get your money back, make sure you let him know what what an idiot he is...so hopefully he realizes the error of his ways and makes you something better. Or you could just tell him to close his speaker shop and go work at burger king. You could buy a speaker from some other guy with a higher IQ instead.
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