Garrard 301 - Project


I have been contemplating for a while which turntable to pursue given so many choices. Every time I look around, I just can’t help drooling over a fully restored Garrard 301 or 401. Aside from being an idler-drive, I keep reading and hearing about their unique ability to reproduce music with its sense of drive and impact thus making them very desirable to own. And with available meticulous restoration services and gorgeous plinth options, what’s not to like, right!

Would you please share your experience, good and pitfalls (if any) with a restored Garrard 301 to avoid before I go down this path.

And what about the IEC inlet and power cord, would they be of any significance. My two choices would be Furutech FI-09 NCF or FI-06 (G) inlets.

I have already purchased a Reed 3P Cocobolo 10.5” with Finewire C37+Cryo tonearm/interconnect phono cable with KLEI RCA plugs option.

Still exploring Cart Options, so please feel free to share your choice of cart with Garrard 301 or 401.

And lastly, I would like to extend my gratitude to @fsonicsmith, @noromance ​​​​@mdalton for the inspiration.

lalitk

 

Some (JVC and others) Plinths are simply composite wood chips and glue with veneer, some are simply a tall frame with a thinner top layer, like that joke of a multi-layered thingy Linn is passing off, see the 3rd photo from below

https://www.paragonsns.com/products/linn-bedrok-plinth?srsltid=AfmBOorUbGXuPhinVLB6eV7NgyfGVtdFWqLHYpzdyj-NPEYdOD8A3Zgg

and some are thick with cutouts which is what I think of as a Plinth. 

The 7 layer plinths, CL-P1; CL-P2 (mine with two removable arm boards); CL-P3 (my friend’s with three removable arm boards) are solid 59mm thick plinths with cutouts, 4 layers of composite wood chips/glue and 3 layers of some compound, with real wood veneer with a finish coating (Linn should be ashamed)

I wonder how it would measure/compare to Panzerholz and Permali in the link you posted elsewhere

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/audioqualia/damping-factor-values-t29.html#google_vignette

blue foam, cork, a blue foam/rubber isolation sandwich worked!

I suspect the cork might have worked also, it really is a trial and error.

I sometimes wish I still had my Thorens TD124 in this new location with these isolaton blocks,

but the JVC plinth is quite different than what I was given, and TT81’s bearing is nothing like the Thorens bearing which is known to transmit vertical motion. The Garrard bearing is probably similar to the Thorens which is why OP needed his isolation blocks for the final thing that worked.

like my CL-P2, from below, solid with cutouts, and proper fittings for the screws

the TT’s with floating suspension usually sit on/in a frame, and then people often put that frame on a platform, kind of like a plinth, and as OP and I needed, some isolation from flexible floors 

here’s a nice combo of a dust cover, wide frame with side board big enough for the 12" long SME arm with sliding mount, and that arm comes with a removable headshell, so easy to have a Mono/Stereo MM/Stereo MC?whatever pre-mounted in their own headshells, pre-aligned

thorens, dust cover, ready for long sme arm

It is easy to make alternate boards for other arms, even simply spin the board 180 degrees and have a mount for _______? in the same board.

Plywood 0.04 --- Chipboard 0.101, neither compare favourably as a Damping Factor to Resin Impregnated Densified Wood Board materials, especially the Brands Panzerholz or Permali.