Casters to replace spikes


So I'm sure this will get a lot of challenge and flak, so please helpful comments only!

Long story short my focus has changed from home theater to two channel back to home theater.  Recently got a projector and in the midst of getting a screen (have a white sheet hanging as temporary) . On a whim I moved my Revel studio 2s and Voice 2 behind the sheet which improved the movie experience 1000%. However I had to push the speakers back against a wall, which is not ideal for two channel listening. I'm planning to purchase an electric screen so on occasion I'd like to be able to pull the speakers out from the wall with little effort when the screen is rolled up. Right now they are on the factory spikes sitting on Herbie's discs, so they can slide on the carpet with some effort. However, every time I've seen Wilson speakers in show rooms, they always seem to be on casters which made me wonder if that's a normal type of arrangement or at least a good enough arrangement.  my system is decent but my room needs lots of treatment so I'm taking an 80/20 approach here.  

Has anyone done this/ can recommend any type of solution for being able to move the front speakers with ease?  Thanks!
esthlos13
My original B&W 801 E series speaker’s came with castors on them. Bought them new in 1982. They still sound great. I use them in my second  system for 2 channel and for HT. 
My B&W 801’s came with casters to mount in the speaker which I am glad they did
as when I clean my system it would be a bitch to move a 200 lb speaker by myself
and they were designed for the use of the casters
Don't be misled by silly opinions, like "NO spikes".

If your speakers rest on a concrete floor, you can't do better than to couple the speakers to the floor as solidly as possible. Spikes lead to more adjustability than concrete bolts, so spikes are a definite alternative in such a case.

I have a rack of electronics in my HT, and it's on casters for reasons similar to yours. It can be made solid by screwing down 5/8" bolts through the bottom shelf to elevate it off the casters. Works fine, takes 2 minutes to make it ready to move, and two minutes more to anchor it.

You can easily do the same thing with a solid block like a maple butcher block. Four bolts, one on each corner (holes drilled and tapped for the bolts); 4 casters, one in the middle of each side. Just fix your speaker to the butcher block, and you're done.

But if your floor is wood, forget it. Locking casters will be better. IMO

Good Luck!
   terry9 hit on a most important factor a bit. I have been challenged in this area as I have moved from one abode to another.....First, the location of your system. Is the floor solid, on the first or upper floor, or subject to vibration if only normal footsteps create distortion? Speaker positioning is, of course, important.
   Even though your floor is carpeted, carpet is not an end all to unwanted vibration. Just my 2 cents.


I use 3 casters, 2 front, 1 rear center: more weight per caster, and always wobble free anywhere. I also put rear corner blocks to prevent tipping, just a bit above the floor, no contact unless speaker starts to tip.

you want good tight axels so they don’t wobble, mine are dual wheel furniture casters.

I’ve had these and other speakers on spikes, on casters, on felt pads, I don’t hear any difference.

Townsend says soft, to prevent earth vibration going ’up’ to the speakers.

I change the toe in according to one or two listeners. I have full out serious listening, part out for more room when one leaf is in the table, and ’parked’ for holidays with all 3 leaves in the table.

my JSE Infinite Slope Model 2’s came on 4 casters, I changed to 3. The front was sloped, ’time-aligned’. My current enclosures are flat front. I put a 1-1/2" block above the front casters to tilt them back, for both time-alignment and to project the tweeters ’up’ directly to seated ear height, and alter the angles of all 3 driver's reflections to/off floor and celiling/rear wall.