Is it safe to use a higher amperage rating fuse?


Today was my 2nd attempt at trying out Synergistic Research fuses.  About 3 years ago when I had separates, including mono block amps, I bought a set of Blue fuses.  One component had a mfg spec of 250mA and the retailer said go with 315mA.  My two mono block amps each had a 6.3A.  When I installed them one of them blew upon powering up.  The retailer said we should go up to the next rating.  I was a bit frustrated at the experience and didn't feel comfortable putting higher values in my expensive components.  I felt these expensive fuses should be made to tighter tolerances than the cheap BUSS fuses I had been using.  If I remember correctly, that was the actual argument that the dealer told me.  They are mfg to tighter tolerances so a 5A SR fuse was almost dead-on 5A while a cheap fuse may actually be 5.3A or whatever.  This also was a bit confusing at the time so I sent them all back.

Okay...3 years have passed and now I have a single integrated amp which has a 5A fuse.  Much less to invest in the upgrade so I ordered an Orange.  It came in today...installed....pressed power...on and off went the amp.  DAMN!!  I contacted the retailer and SR on the same email.  This was a different dealer from 3 years ago.  The retailer said I should go to the next value up.  I said no and and they are waiting for the tracking info of my return shipment.

I did a quick search of my question before posting and saw a thread about the Red fuses and someone said they had to do the exact same thing.  Is everyone putting higher rated fuses in their gear that is worth thousands of dollars?  Is there no risk in this?  I admit that I don't know what could actually happen from that.  It seems that other things could burn up if a higher amperage fuse is in place.  I am compelled to simply stick to the mfg specs for something that I don't understand because I don't want to create problems just from a simple tweak.

Should I let them ship me a 6.3A or just be done with this?
dhite71
"  I value what the MFG recommends. They advised me to never put a larger value fuse in any component as this is how the safety features are designed. Seems some of us are finding no issue with that strategy but I am not comfortable to roll the dice with my gear.  "

I tend to agree with your sentiment. 

Do a sanity check. Get a couple of manufacturer rated regular (i.e. "non-audiophile") fuses and try them. If they don't blow and your audiophile fuses blow, the fuses are at fault and send them back.

If you blow the regular non audiophile fuses that are rated per your manufacturer specifications, you need to contact your manufacturer. 

@pauly no issues otherwise(knock knock).  This was simply a tweak/experiment.  The stock 5A fuse works as expected.


dhite71 OP
This kind of dangerous advise below is total lunacy and could only come from a "snake oil fusers" mouths, which all have no concept of electronics whatsoever.

Me being one of the few actually has common sense, when mine blew I didn’t go up one baby step I doubled the damn thing. Why not? There are guys soldering wires straight across simply because it sounds better.


Cheers George
@pauly no issues otherwise(knock knock). This was simply a tweak/experiment. The stock 5A fuse works as expected.
Ah... I love happy endings! :-)
@OP
Fuses are noisy. You can use a small value capacitor, 0.01 uF and smaller wired between live and ground to mitigate the noise. 
Note, if you wire the capacitor upstream from the fuse, you have to use a capacitor that is rated to be used on mains I.e. a class Y capacitor. https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/safety-capacitor-class-x-and-class-y-capacitors/

Downstream from the fuse you can use a regular film capacitor.

I found a good quality film cap downstream from the fuse wired across live and ground sometimes produces an audible improvement in the sound. A Y cap upstream from the fuse not so much.