Can too many components on one outlet affect the sound of an amp?

     Add the wattage rating of everything on your circuit, including lamps, TV's etc. Divide it by 80% (where a breaker trips) of the circuit breaker rating, If you  get under 110 volts, you absolutely need a bigger circuit.

Power conditioners can help, but they mostly try to alleviate losses from inadequate house wiring or an inadequate-for-lousy-house-wiring amp power supply.

Consider what I would have with a 15 amp breaker: My two amps have four 500 watt transformers. That is 2000 watts (plus the preamps, CD, Tuner, etc.).

Take the 12 amps of current available and multiply it by 110 volts, and I need 1320 watts just to fill my 2000 watts of transformers, plus my preamps, tuner(s), turntable, CD player, and other internals in the amps, not to mention lamps, TV's etc.
     A 20 amp circuit yields 1650 watts (80% of 20x110), while a 30 amp circuit yields 2640 watts (80% of 30x110), the bare minimum for my system.  

My amps provide truly spectacular sound for my B&W's, but they require a 30 amp breaker, which was much cheaper than buying an upgraded amp with a $5000 power supply (from Audire or anyone else).

I inherited Classe equipment (Two 350 wpc amps and one 150 wpc x 6 and their preamps). At super loud volumes on a 15 amp breaker they blew away my Audire system, but only when plugged into 15 amp wiring.

When using the 30 amp circuit, I prefered the precise focus of the Audire, plus the really tight bass returned.

I will say admit that the Classe is much more spectacular than the Audire, and it doesn't need a 30 amp circuit, despite the much greater power, but I listen for me, not to impress others with spectacularity.

Plug your system into a dedicated 20 amp outlet for a test and use an extension cord for a power saw. (Return it to Home Depot, if you choose.)

Twenty amp circuits are becoming more common, but most houses use 15 for lighting and wall outlets. It met the code when I was in the business.

For a dedicated 20 amp outlet, use your clothes washer, garbage disposal, garage or exterior outlets on houses under 40 years old.
 
What's it gonna be? A little wire and a $5 breaker or a major investment?

Or just maybe, an extension cord to your washer outlet?



 

I have a large house with the usual 15 amp circuit (actually two panels). I had two dedicated 10 gauge wire outlets put in and run to the main panel with one outlet behind each speaker to serve the monoblock amp there. Then along came ac filter boxes and regenerators.  Also sometimes I only had a stereo amp. To cut to the chase, I very seldom use the left side outlet.

Also, I have experimented with a great number of power filters, like probably twenty. I now use all HFCables pcs and their waveguide power center plugged into a 20 amp circuit. Since the surge on turn on for one big amp kept tripping my circuit breaker, I had to go to 20 amp breakers.

I have six components plugged into my power center with it wired to the wall outlet. Once I had seven components as I was using the BMC M2 monoblocks. I have never thought that I was adversely affected by having too much load on the circuit. I have, however, found the wall outlet to be critical. The house originally had Eagle outlets. Here again I have tried probably 15 different outlets. They too make a difference.

So electronics before the components can affect the sound, but I  doubt that you are near the limits on even a 15 amp circuit. If you were to trip a breaker, then I would be concerned, especially as you may have only 16 gauge house wiring. Most outlets now are configured to allow the use of 20 amp plugs, but I have yet to see anyone using such a plug to the wall.

You can break it down to the basics.  Current & voltage coming from any outlet will contain some form of noise, some more than others due to what is plugged into that same line circuit.  What and the only thing that could affect the sound quality from audio equipment is AC noise introduced on the line.  The rest is a current supply issue.  Eliminate the AC noise component and you have clean audio.  Most all floor / wall outlets are 20 amp circuits. Lighting is 15 amp circuit which it should be.  But I have seen where lighting circuits are tied into the wall outlets which is a big NO-NO.  Power conditioners/isolators like Monster Power etc. are a very good idea.  And a dedicated 20 AMP circuit as mention in another post for your power amplifier is also a very good idea.  Ground loops are death to audio systems, and are sometimes difficult to track down.  I have seen special duplexes for audio equipment sold for 500.00 plus.  What a joke!  save your money, a beefy 20 AMP duplex for 1.15 will convey the current and voltage to your piece of gear just as well as the touted special outlet, for ungodly amounts of money.  One other thing all homes have 14-2 gage wire for lighting circuits and 12-2 gage wire for all outlet circuits.  Or they better be to be in compliance with local code.

cleeds
"do you mean the safety ground------"
The ground is lifted only for the outlets in the audio, not from the main circuit board. You are absolutely right that it does not meet the code, when I sell the house, it will be set right. Therefore, I recommended caution. not for every one. It did make a significant difference though in sound. 

Try running your amp direct in the wall. Run your source gear and pre amp off the conditioner. Next separate digital from analog gear if possible.