No bass with new turntable?


 Hello, I've just set up a Pro-ject Carbon DC Esprit, dialed in the arm etc., and while the upper spectrum of the sound is great, there is just no bass, let's say below the 80-100hz range. It's been probably 30 years since I've fooled around with turntables so I can't remember if that's just the way it's supposed to be. Luckily I have a Velodyne SMS-1 bass management system to turn up what I'm missing, but without that I'd be completely disappointed. Using a CDP my speakers are very full of bass. I've played with the tone arm adjustments with no difference in bass really, all supplied cables hooked up and checked, the cart is an Ortofon Red, the phono preamp is integrated in the Rogue Audio Sphinx amp.
 Any suggestions/opinions?
wetfeet48
I followed the saga from beginning to this end.  When you say that you let the system run while you watched TV (or something), were you actually playing LPs during this time, or was the system just "on"?  One point I failed to mention and which was not emphasized by others, either, is that many if not all cartridges DO require at least 5-10 hours of break-in from new, in order to max out the bass response, more so than for other higher frequencies.  IMO, this is because the suspension has to loosen up a bit.  I just went through such an experience with a re-tipped cartridge that had previously been "on the shelf" for many years.  What you experienced and are experiencing may be entirely due to break-in, which means that the bass response may continue to improve over the next several hours of actually playing LPs.

I also agree with whoever else suggested not to increase VTF dramatically beyond the manufacturer's recommendation (+0.5g is dramatic) just to chase bass response.  There is good reason to stay within the recommended range unless you have serious mistracking.
Hi Lewn, yes actually playing, needle to the LP. Looking back at your original post the tonearm is actually exactly as you suggested, ever so slightly slanted back. I think you're right about the break-in. Again today I'm just letting the player go on low with a new record just to see if some more play time helps out. It does seem to be getting better with time. I'll sit down for a listen in a couple hours.  
I do think a combo of readjusting, the cart cable out slightly, and the newer LP the other night helped out quite noticeably. The first few LP's were just crazy lean sounding. 
Wetfeet, as for taking cleaning a step further, I am rather unstable on the subject. I do a minimum of 15 minutes of ultrasound followed by 3 rinses of purified water plus one of distilled water. The results are obvious: water beads and streams off the records, like a newly waxed fender.

After 400 hours, I inspected my premium cartridge with a lab microscope, and could find no trace of wear. Nor could my dealer. That means that the ultrasound more than paid for itself in cartridge life, and the better sound is just a bonus.

I suggest that you go slow and improve things one step at a time. A record cleaning machine is a good investment, but buy it used - there is nothing much to go wrong. By the way, it is good to clean all records, even if they are new and sealed. Otherwise you risk a trace of oil in the grooves, which combines with dust, and forms a grinding compound which reshapes your stylus, and thence your wallet.
Holy moly terry9, to the non-audiophile that might sound borderline whacky! That's quite a cleaning process, but I understand. It's all part of the fun, almost ceremonial process of vinyl listening. I have a nice little collection of tobacco pipes and enjoy the process of smoking occasionally, and often relate listening to vinyl and smoking a pipe. I felt lazy about using my new Spin Clean, but I feel embarrassed now after hearing your process. You don't have one of those Nitty Gritty units do you? I imagine your cleaning gear is worth more than my entire TT set up.

I also noticed in another post you mentioned Bryston, do you have one? 
Terry9, I don't know why one should fear "oil" would be a problem with new LPs, but if it ever were a problem, one would be best off to use a solvent that can have a hope of solubilizing oily compounds, which would involve using a mild detergent, either ionic or non-ionic. Ultrasound and either "pure" or "distilled" water (you used these terms; I don't know how you distinguish between them) might not solubilize oily petroleum derivatives.  There is a prevailing belief that new LPs are plagued by "mold release" compounds; this idea has been recently dispelled; there's no such thing, according to one authority.