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Question for DIY people: Butcher block shelving??

I picked up the "Spar" maple butcher block from IKEA the other day. (Link to the butcher block is here) => http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=12&langId=-1&productId=15241

I am going to use these blocks to replace the cheap MDF shelves on my welded steel Target rack. I believe the blocks are unfinished. They are not solid chunks of maple -- there is some hollowness inside.

My question is, what should I do with them next to increase their effectiveness as shelves and to increase their durability? Should I oil them? Put a coat of lacquer on them? Glue cork and/or rubber to the underside?

I will be placing them under a variety of components (Cd player, amp, power conditioner), so I could customize each block to suit the component it sits on.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!!!! Thanks!!!!
marc_dc
nsgarch's avatar
nsgarch
2,524 posts
 
The IKEA stuff will not perform like real butcher block. It's like airplane food -- looks and smells like the real thing but has no nutritional value! Your MDF is probably at least just as good.

If you want a sonic improvement, you need "end grain" maple butcher block. It's REALLY EXPENSIVE. (It's even more expensive than the solid maple "butcher block" counter tops, where the wood is laid in strips.)

If you just like the IKEA stuff for cosmetic reasons, go for it, but just remember, it's 100% phony.
sbank's avatar
sbank
3,378 posts
 
FWIW, I don't really agree w/Nsgarch's comments, and feel that you will get some improvement with Ikea maple. If you stick with your plan, try a couple of coats of tung oil, with light sanding after each couple, then finish with a light paste wax. This is the finish you will see on my rack if you click on my system. Cheers,
Spencer
nsgarch's avatar
nsgarch
2,524 posts
 
The IKEA product is not maple, it's cheap beech. And it has a hollow core, and I'll betcha ten bucks it makes a nice hollow sound when you rap your knuckles on it. Tung oil and wax makes a nice finish, if you don't think you might ever have to repair it -- wax doesn't come out, ever. Try 2 light coats of Flecto Natural Oil and Sealer. You can buff it out 30 min after application, and it makes the nicest, waterproof, Danish "hand rubbed" finish. In the future, you can always sand it lightly and do it again. Great stuff! Available at all Ace Hardware stores But you may have to order it as they don't often stock it. Don't let them tell you they don't have it, I just got some last week!
loonytunz's avatar
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loonytunz
164 posts
 
Nsgarch is correct. These are constructed of beech, which is an open grain, 'soft' hardwood, and does not share many sonic characteristics with solid maple.

If you've already taken the beech shelves, you can salvage them by drilling a suitable sized hole in what will be the underside, fill them with silica sand and plug the hole with with a chunk of dowel and some wood glue. Sand, stain to match and lay on a couple coats of Minwax wipe-on poly. Voila! Instant shelves...
slipknot1
1,423 posts
 
I am somewhere in the middle with the above comments, having experimented with the very product you have under consideration. No, it's not maple, it's beech, but it ain't cheap beech, it's heavy and solid - try drilling through it.

The idea of several suitable-size holes on the underside filled with silica is a good idea.

Even stock, it is a damn sight better than what is passed off these days, in a lot of cases as MDF.

My advice (FWIW) is real rock maple, edge glued butcher block from http://www.johnboos.com or http://www.perfectplank.com or http://www.timbernation.com
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