Top ten DD turntables of all time?


I'm getting back into vinyl and need some suggestions. Please don't suggest belt drives!!! Better yet, let's mention only vintage DD turntables, since I feel they are superior to anything being manufactured today.
rod1957
A few other great DD tables which have not gotten a mention here would be the following:
Onkyo PX-100M
Denon DP-80 (re-plinthed)
Sony TTS-8000 (re-plinthed)
Lo-D TU-1000 (might benefit from being re-plinthed)
Diatone LT-1
Yamaha PX-1
Pioneer PL-1L

Cdk84, with zero tweaking vs their original form, I think the top three would have to be the Exclusive P3a/P3, the Denon DP-100M, and perhaps the Sony XS-9. With new plinths and tweaking, the above-mentioned Technics SP-10Mk2/3 should be real winners, as should the ones above. The Denon and Sony have less torque than the Technics, but they have very good speed controllers onboard. I have also heard very good things about the Nak TX-1000. From people who have owned more than 2 of the tables listed, including the Kenwood L-07D and/or the Marantz TT-1000, the constant refrain I have heard is that they look cool but they just don't cut it vs the bigger boys on the list. With tweaking, any number of these would be top drawer - I think the real problem is going to be how easy it might be to get it there - and the SP10Mk2/3 is probably among the easiest to get there.

I often wonder how good the Yamaha PX-1 and Diatone LT-1 could be if re-plinthed, but it would be a real shame to chop them up to see. Same with the PL-1L but they are tough to find in working condition these days and Pioneer doesn't seem to want to work on them...

Chaskelljr2001, the P3 is a phenomenal table. The Denon DP-80 is also very good if properly plinthed and isolated.
Can sitting on a solid foundation be a reasonable substitute for having to re-plinth any of these tables?

If sitting on a solid foundation otherwise, does the plinth matter as much?

That might be a more digestible option for those not inclined to perform major surgery on their playback equipment.

Also, how hard is it for a layman to re-plinth a table? I must say it is something that I have never even considered attempting.
Mapman, as to whether sitting on a solid foundation is enough... Build a giant steel-reinforced concrete cube platform - call it 100ft a side. Put an electron microscope on top of it - however the electron microscope is sitting on a piece of plywood which is suspended on top of a giant bowl of jello. Which will matter more to the electron microscope, if a man is tapping on the side of the concrete platform? or if someone is trying to break the bowl of jello with a jackhammer.

Re-plinthing a table is not difficult for those which are meant to be re-plinthed (Technics SP-10Mk2, Technics SP-10Mk3, the Denon DPs, the Sony TTS 6000 and 8000, the JVC TT-81 and 101, the Exclusive P10 (and probably the P3), the Pioneer PL70L (and lower models with the Stable Hanging Rotor system), and probably some of the Kenwoods, and probably the top Diatone). Some of the above area easier than others. In the worst case, you design the plinth and get someone to cut the wood for you. If you want to veneer it, watch a youtube video. Doing it really well on the other hand... I am not a furniture maker either, but some of the really nice plinths don't cost that much to have someone else build.
T_bone,

Please bear with me in that I am very interested in understanding the practical benefits of a more solid plinth and the effect it has on the sound.

What if I just don't tap and keep the jack hammer in the closet? Can I assume that airborne vibrations due to the music playing only is the cause of concern?

Also, the rigidity of the stock plinths on most of these tables has to be significantly better than a bowl of jello, so I understand the analogy but am not sure the magnitude of issues due to rigidity is comparable.

Also what if the speakers are in a different room than the system compared to in the same room so there is no sonic vibrations either? I have both cases with my system. I also have similar speakers in each room so I suppose I could do some testing to see if I hear a difference in the equipment room versus the other.

What work is involved to integrate table and plinth in the case where table is designed to be re-plinthed versus not? Do I have to take apart the old table somehow to put it in the new plinth? What is involved to put it into the new plinth properly?
Mapman, if you click on my system, and look at the pics for the Denon DP-80, I can tell you that screwdriver in hand, it would take me 2mins flat to remove the TT from the plinth (assuming it has no record on it - call it another 10 seconds plus the time to put the record in the jacket if as is). The Sony TTS-8000 pic is nude (i.e. wearing no plinth) so you can see what the structure of one of these is. It comes with mounting screws which are similar to the Denon mounting screws (one removes the platter, and mounts the structure to the plinth). I have not yet plinthed that one but a simple method would be to follow the CLD-style plinth recipes as outlined in the 'Home Despot' thread (or elsewhere on the net), with a cutout designed for this particular pattern of body.

As for vibrations... there are vibrations all around us. Putting a 200lb TT onto a table, which is mounted on a concrete slab, is OK. Putting a passive system like a vibraplane or similar underneath is a whole new ballgame. I cannot tell you why most of us cannot feel the whole world shaking beneath our feet, but in a a lot of places it does...