VPI Scout setup after watching Frefmer's video


I understand all the concepts, however one question still bugs me. When I read VPI's manual they go through the set up process pretty well with one of the first things you do is set the anti skate. Here is what I don't get, if the anti skate is hooked up how are you suppose to set tracking force and azimuth correctly if ther is a constant counter force acting on it? Even if you disconnect the Lemo it still imparts a force just hanging there.

I'm a newbie at TT's so maybe I'm missing something.
last_lemming

Showing 5 responses by brf

You are both right. I like and use the CI and I also agree with Stringreen that the same results can be achieved without the CI. If you have an older VPI arm without the end stub allen key VTF adjustment, the CI becomes more useful.
The CI has nothing to do with antiskate. The CI allows for fine VTF and azimuth adjustments only.
My VPI counterweight weighs 150g; the CI weights about 20g. Rotating a 20g drop down weight around a fixed axis will allow for a finer azimuth adjustment than rotating a 150g weight.

If you are a person who likes to adjust their azimuth to the nth degree, go for the CI, otherwise the standard VPI counterweight method will suffice.
There is no “big deal”. The CI issue/debate has been divided into 2 camps.

Camp 1 says you don’t need the CI and all adjustment can be done using the VPI arm.

Camp 2 says the CI is needed to properly dial in correct azimuth and VTF.

The answer is…both are correct. You don’t need the CI to dial in azimuth and VTF but the CI may allow for a finer level of adjustment for azimuth and VTF. Also, some just prefer to use the CI.
Take a hair dryer set to low and heat up the VPI tonearm leads to relax the insulation. Once heated, you can create a nice neutral arc.