Use of Power Conditioners vs. Direct into the Wall


I'm considering the purchase of some quality power cables and maybe a Shunyata Hydra-8. A couple questions:

1. Should my Amps (Parasound Halo JC-1 Mono's) go into the Hydra--or direct into the wall?

2. I have Seven total components (amps, pre, phono etc.). Is it advisable for all of them to go into a single Hydra? I saw a review comment in Absolute Sound that seem to indicate usate of the Hydra-8 for front-end components...and Hydra-2 for the Amps. (Separate Hydra 2's or just one for a pair of mono's?)

Thanks.
128x128earzona

Showing 2 responses by blindjim


Ask 50 audioholics the same question and you’ll get 52 answers most likely.

I’d not lose any sleep over having my dedicated power lines not being of equal lengths, but that is funny stuff.

Having dedicated lines however is a step up all by it/themselves, however.

Amps, depending on their quality level will receive less and less benefit from power line filtration or conditioning most of the time. Naturally, if your incoming power is quite poor only conditioning or filtration is going to assist you in removing those artifacts and grunge from the lines…. Dedicated ckts won’t. Dedicated ckts, WILL provide a fatter pipe filled with juice for the amps, or other components.

Starting at the beginning seems best IF you have the resolve and of course own the property itself. Running dedicated ckts is a moot issue if in an apt., rental or leased property.

2 dedicated 20A ckts should suffice for your current situation. One for power components, and the other for the front end items. Given the cost running a third can’t hurt, and one never knows ….

Once done and that ckt run in for a couple weeks, with lamps, fans or just the gear itself if you want, check it – them out. If things sound great, the need for power line conditioning can wait a bit. If still more dedication and/or funds, is present, try out conditioning for the front end items first. Thereafter, try a smaller one, which implements no bandwidth suppression or current limitations for the amps.

Truth be told, prior to adding filtration of a sort, put some better outlets on them ded ckts first! Lots cheaper and you should see a definite gain in smoothness and blacker backgrounds…. Even if their only Hosp or spec grade outlets!

Elsewise you simply won’t know for sure what needs addressing and what doesn’t.

Least I forget, if you run ded ckts… use the same phase. Choose the one in the box the major appliances aren’t on if possible. Eg., water heater, fridge, microwave, freezer, washer & dryer, etc. If at all possible place you ded ckts at the closest point to the incoming feed on the bus you select.

You can tweak the ded ckts by the type of wire you use to run them with, the outlets themselves, how the outlets are mounted in their boxes, how the wire is terminated to the outlets, etc. Get as crazy as you want there… but don’t concern yourself with any disparity between the actual lengths of their individual runs. The length of the run matter only in the selection of the wire gauge being used… and I doubt you would need more than #12… at worst a #10. you could also consider running each ckt ‘s wires in their own PVC conduits to further isolate them if run in quite close proximity to other power or com lines, and especially if non shielded wire is chosen.

However, I have 4 20A ded ckts. All are standard #12 romex. None are in conduit. Things sound quite good to me & others, so there’s that note on the “How crazy should I get?” addendum.

I’ve tried a few PLCs including Shunyata, PS Audio, and running Springs Audio. Of the three brands, the RSA haley provided the least amount of noted dynamic loss while in use with my various amps. Each has it’s own signature or flavor and I’d not allow popularity alone, to be my guide with PLCs selecting.

In fact I use a PSA Duet for my spinning gear and mass fi stuff. The Haley supplies mostly my DAC, preamp, and a PC digital source. Sometimes I’ll connect amps to it, sometimes I won’t. As I said above, there’s a flavor which is additive or subtractive using conditioners and even passive filters…. Which you may or may not like in certain cases…. Or at certain times.

The curious thing about PLCs, active or passive, is you can have dirty power and things can still sound mighty good to you. Consequently, adding a very good PLC to the system should only allow you to hear your system better. Cleaner, clearer and more musically. Less proficient ones will reduce the bandwidth, here or there and come across as if the sound has been slightly compressed. True too there may be some lessening of the leading edge severity or impact…. This aspect will range about from maker to maker, model to model, in varying degrees… and why many prefer to run good amps, like your Halo’s right into the wall.

A quite notable thought on all the ‘passive’ units I’ve used and prefer to use, is that the feed cord will definitely provide it’s voice to the downstream items as an additive influence. I’ve found the supplying power cord to the “whatever cond or filter”, is as key if not more so than is the power line cleaner upper. In fact the voice of your system can and will be changed more by it than will a great conditioning device. It’ll pay you to spend some time addressing that link, I assure you, to whatever extent you desire.

Other power cords on your various pieces will also alter, enhance, or im-prove things for you. I’ll guarantee you this much, things will at the very least change. Nearly everytime, with different power cords on the same device!

I’ve run both tube and SS mono block amps…. They like many squeakers dig power. Unimpeded power that is….

Good luck, and do try comparing PLCs, some are better than others and price isn’t always representative of how they’ll work in your rig.

Earzona

Figuring you own a home, open up your braker box and look at the name on it, GE, ITT, Pacific Electric, Cuttler Hammer, etc, (also see if you have any blanks or unused spaces on it… if not, you’ll merely need a thing called wafer breakers instead of std ones), get a general idea of how far it is from the box to the place you want/need to put the outlets, then stop by one of the Adult Toy stores in your area, Lowes, Home Depot, Builders Square, etc... and ask them what all you'll need to install your power lines. Your material list costs will come to under $150 I'd bet. Front to back, incld spec grade outlets. Surely less than $200 and why I said put in 3 if possible. AS One never knows.

Here’s the argument as I see it on all this power line abbra ka dabbra magic, snake oil, and factual contention.

The further up the food chain you go with high end audio usually, the products become more articulate and sensitive to many changes. Upstream component changes, cabling, isolation changes, etc. it’s on the same lines as relocating speakers… even at times some minor changes there will affect the overall depiction of the sound.

As power is the one common denominator to all of a system, and not a lot of people are entirely up to speed on electricity, & electrical services in general, it remains for many a dark subject and one which they’d as soon not mess about with or invest more time and money to improve upon. I mean in that regard, “it’s working fine enough. Always has, and as I’ve bought better stuff the sound has also improved, so all that talk about cables and adding still more junk to the incoming power lines must just be more bull.”

Parenthetically speaking, it’s almost like those who say the shorter signal path is the best, and use only a CDP with volume controls directly feeding their amp. Well… you throw in a very very good preamp into that mix and those people likely will change their tone…. As did I. In fact I was a commercial & industrial electrician and when I heard all this rhetoric on incoming power I scoffed at it almost abusively, but felt I had to see for myself. I did and it isn’t hype.

Nope. It ain’t. So I’d ask those who quantify these areas as total loss of investment to qualify themselves a bit more by asking them if they have ever done such things, to what extent, and on what sorts of gear?

If ya ain’t ever jumped out of a perfectly good airplane just for fun, or I suppose any other reason, ya simply DO NOT KNOW!

HERE’S THE FACTS… do you need dedicated power lines?
NOPE.
WILL THEY HELP YOUR GEAR PERFORM BETTER?
YEP. The better question is HOW WILL THEY HELP?
BLACKNESS OF BACKGROUND IN THE PRESENTATION, AND LESS AFFECTED FROM THE REST OF THE HOMES GIZMOS… dimmer, chargers, appliances… etc. Thus adding another level of smoother operation, and greater resolution by subtraction.

NEED POWER CABLES?
Nope. Better put, Will Better power cables help?
Yep. Again, eg., HOW….
Again, eg. See above.

NEED POWER LINE CONDITIONING OR FILTERING?
Nope.
Beneficial? Way More often than not.
HOW? THIS AREA GETS A BIT MORE COMPLICATED… depending again on the system and how or where one is applied, but most often a much greater impact is felt here, and aking to the addition of better cabling. The idea of ‘how much better’ remains in the ears of the beholder however. I’d say at least, a noticeable one.

There are numerous analogies I could submit I guess, but the best might be this, until you’ve actually been to the Lourve Museum in Paris and seen a Rembrandt or da Vinci in person, until you’ve been to St Peters Bascilica in the Vatican City and seen the various works of the master sculptors first hand, swam with the sharks off the coast of Mexico, or stood atop a living volcano, checking all that out on the Discovery channel or Learning channel, just isn’t the same. It ain’t.

I suspect another argument would be “IS IT ALL WORTH IT, POWER CORDS, DEDICATED CKTS, POWER FILTERING?”

…. And my answer would follow along these lines… Why did you buy what you bought instead of lesser expensive gear? They would both have made good sounds. Why’d you do mono blocks instead of a stereo amp? Why’d you spend $10K on speakers instead of $6K?

Do you put regular unleaded gas in your Porsche, ‘Vette, Lexus, or Infinity, and outfit it with recaps?

Why do birthday cakes have icing on them, they don’t kneed it, do they?

The ‘icing’, the finishing touches for a fine system or to make a very good system spectacular, are these peripherals. Isolation, room acoustics, power line acutramen, cabling, etc.

Years ago when I first was pointed to this site I found over and over again, these words as it pertains to one’s audio rig… “Everything matters and everything makes a difference”. The sole caveat to that is, your ears and your system components are the only limitations to perceived gains. If the rig isn’t resolving enough to exhibit noticeable minor gains, or your ears aren’t capable, or the rooms acoustics disallow such things due to uncontrolled bass resonances & reflections, well there’s that. Look to them first.

But if it is, and you are, and you don’t look into such things, then you simply won’t know what the full voice of your system can really be. True too, you’ll spend less. Have some more time on your hands. Be less audiophobic and still have a decent deal going on for yourself.

Always will there be those questions for the audio nut. Always will there be too, the incidental ‘point of diminishing returns’ wherein the gains become smaller, the differences yet slighter, and the costs dramatically increased.

For the money, within reason, addressing power line issues (known or unknown) via ded ckts, ($100 $500) is very cost effective. Power cabling too is a valid beneficial aspect to investigate for oneself. Power conditioning again, is quite system dependant though not as acute as perhaps, matching a 2wpc ch SET amp to High sensitivity speakers. Will all that make your Halos sound like Cords? Probably not. Will it make your speakers sound like Rockports? I’d doubt that too.

Will it add refinement, involvement, give you more of that “they are here rather than you are there” business, and add more life into the musical presentation? I’d bet more than a fair amount on it… and did…. And yes in my own very modest home, and about as modest gear, it sure did! Think about that for a second… if an old nearly totally blind guy wit severely encumbered means, and an immense abhorrence to new concepts, can do such things and further realize improvements on even a modest level, it’s quite possible for anyone to do them and very likely surpass my own levels quite easily.

To get some inkling of what a ded ckt will do before you actually put one in, (leaving off the gear only) turn on all else in that room and the adjacent areas… then flip off the breakers until you find the one (s) feeding it… unplug all else from the ckt, and turn off the lights if any are attached… then reengage the breaker and listen to your gear for a while, it’s only a small sip of what’ll happen, as a ded ckt has nothing else running on it… no other splices, joints etc, but forget that if you have flouescent lighting attached to that line as the transformers are in play on the neutral and ground.

Call the Cable Co….. throw in some Hospital grade outlets for $8 ea, or as suggested some Porter Ports for $36… and go from there. Try some of the cheaper more popular filters and if not pleased simply resell them. That’s almost exactly what I’ve and other’s have done so we could see for ourselves.

Very good luck