2. amps-preamps
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Upgrade advice needed

Let me tell you my story.

Piece by piece, I've been gradually building an audiophile quality system.

My system is a Toshiba Laptop w/ J River playing FLAC files into a Wyred 4 Sound DAC-2. The laptop is dedicated exclusively as a music server. I've stripped most of the background processes from the Laptop and disconnected from the internet. The only external connections are the USB line to the DAC and a Mouse connected by the other USB connector

I don't have a preamp, the W4S DAC has onboard volume control.

I'm using a NAD 356 BEE Integrated amp but bypassing the preamp module and routing the DAC input directly to the power amp. The speakers are Vienna Acoustic Beethoven Baby Grands. I use LAT International SS-800 MkII 6 ft speaker cords and Pangea AC-14, 14 Gauge after market power cords for the NAD amp and the DAC. I installed Albert Porter Outlets. I do not have any power conditioners.

I live in an apartment so room treatments and dedicated circuit wires are out.

Musical tastes are primarily chamber music and some classic jazz of 1950s and 60s.

I listen near field - 6 feet from speakers and prefer moderate volume. I don't have much interest in Home theater or television in general.

My biggest source of frustration is the reproduction of violins and pianos. I recently ripped a CD of Bachs Violin Sonatas by Arthur Grumiaux. The sound is so harsh a cannot listen for more then 10 minutes.

My issue with pianos is the percussive aspect of the instrument seems to overwhelm the musical tone. I have a collection of Chopin Polonaises and it sounds like the artist is playing the piano keys with a hammer.

Other instruments sound better -- Cellos, brass, woodwinds, vocals.

I'm wondering what the next step in my upgrade evolution should be. I been intrigued by the First Watt line of amps. They seem to be a good fit for me. But, I don't know, will that address my issues with violins?

I could spend up to 5K now and, perhaps a year from now, I could swing another 5K for the next component

I'd welcome any suggestions.
128x128cjk5933

Showing 3 responses by cjk5933

cjk5933's avatar
cjk5933 OP
23 posts
 
06-27-14: Meiwan
Try using the W4S as a DAC only, and use the pre-amp section of the NAD, just to see what happens.

Wow. As soon as I read that I had a Homer Simpson "Duh!" moment. When the W4S DAC arrived I immediately hooked it into my system and bypassed the NAD preamp. I never looked back.

For 6 months I've been bitching about the violins and not once did it occur to me to just reinsert the preamp. This weekend I have time from work. I'll try some A/B testing with the preamp then celebrate with a Homer lunch of donuts and beer.
cjk5933's avatar
cjk5933 OP
23 posts
 
06-27-14: Meiwan
If you are looking to upgrade, stop using the W4S as a pre-amp, it's a good DAC but not a good pre-amp.
06-27-14: Mapman
Focus on the DAC and pre-amp.

At this point, maybe consider adding a tube DAC or tube pre-amp for that type of music in particular if still not clicking.
06-27-14: Jmcgrogan2
I agree with Meiwan, just use the W4S as a DAC and get a nice tube integrated amp and use it's preamp inputs.
06-27-14: Elizabeth
I would suggest a good quality tubed preamp in there. Your treble sucks.. So a tube preamp and a power conditioner.

Thank you for the response. I guess I was naive. I thought with a well regarded DAC and some attention to the computer configuration, the front end would take care of itself.
My instinct was to remove as much circuitry from the signal path as possible, ie; the less components, the less noise, distortion, etc. One thing I liked about the W4S DAC was the volume control. It seemed like an opportunity to remove the preamp from the signal path.

I think I'll go back to the forums and start looking again at discussions about preamps

I suppose there are two philosophical views here. One perspective is to simplify the signal path as much as possible. First Watt seems to have made that the basis of their design philosophy. To me, that's a very persuasive idea

The other view seems to accept noise and distortion as unavoidable and pursues the objective of reproducing the music by moderating the deficiencies of one component by the strengths of the next component in the sound chain.

06-27-14: Jmcgrogan2
It would also help to switch to just plain copper speaker cables. LAT's Silverfuse alloy is mixing silver with copper, which will help enhance brightness and harshness. They even talk on their website about the warmth and mellowness of copper, but they "add" the clarity and definition of silver. The silver is part of the problem. It may work alright with a tube integrated amp, but you may find that just switching to pure copper cable may help alleviate much of the harshness you are experiencing.
06-27-14: Elizabeth
.... cables matter too. I found Kimber Hero for balanced. And Cardas Parsec for RCA to be the best bangs for the buck.

Good insight about the silver. When I purchased the Vienna Acoustic speakers I thought I should get something better then the Monster cord I had been using. These were available used and locally at a very low price. I didn't give it much more thought because I've always been skeptical of the claims (and price) made here for IC, power cords, etc.

I've always thought once you get above a the minimum baseline of quality, the claims and subtle distinctions between types and brands of cords seemed dubious.
cjk5933's avatar
cjk5933 OP
23 posts
 
Thank you all for the help.

I've made a number of changes based on the suggestions and the harshness has definitely diminished.

I've connected the DAC to the preamp of my NAD amp and switched the W4S to fixed mode. That automatically moves the DAC volume to Max so there shouldn't be anymore bit dropping from trying to control the audio with digital.

I disassembled the outlet and cleaned all of the wires with deoxit

06-27-14: Almarg
What settings of the DAC's volume control do you typically find yourself using, within its 0 to 70 range? And how have you set "USB minimum volume level" and "USB maximum volume level" in its menus?
I also checked the various digital volume controls on the computer and J River. I had J River volume dialed down to 25%. I pushed it back to max.


06-28-14: Stewie
Don't assume the problem is in your system. Pianos and violins often sound harsh live (pianos especially), and the "better" your system, the more you'll pick it up. Then too, recordings sometimes unwittingly add or just emphasize distortion in the upper register of the piano.
I spent some time comparing recordings and I suspect the ones I cited may have been carelessly produced. But I find most piano and violin solos hard to listen to for long periods. Some like Chopin are really obnoxious

06-27-14: Elevick
Do you have a solid state hard drive? It made a huge difference on my laptop with jriver. Faster, quieter and runs cooler..

06-28-14: Zd542
Looking at your system, I would say that using your PC as a source is the most likely place for something to go wrong.
I take your point about the limitations of computer servers but I'm committed to this for the convenience and simplicity. This was my old general purpose laptop I repurposed as a server primarily by clearing most of the extraneous software and background processes.

I've resisted adding a SS hardrive to this laptop because my long term upgrade plan is to switch from a Wintel box to a Mac mini with external power and SS hardrive.


That includes addressing room acoustics by tweaking speaker placement and orientation

Positioning speakers in a small apartment is problematic. That's one reason I lean towards a near field system -- I think that's a more practical approach to my lifestyle. I could afford to buy a house but I just don't want the hassles. I have a similar approach to audio. I want good sound with minimal fuss. I wonder if I should sell the Vienna Acoustic floor standing and get a small Single driver monitor like Omega
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