Swiss Digital Fuse Box - "What headroom sounds like"


Swiss Digital Fuse Box (SDFB) is non-sacrificial overcurrent protection device that serves as a replacement for fuses in audio equipment.

There are four devices in my sound system that I’ve replaced fuses with the SDFB, and its transformative capacity to upgrade sound quality beyond that of fuses has compelled me to write a review. I’m not associated with Verafi Audio, the company that sells them, nor did I receive anything from them as "review units". There’s another thread on Audiogon about them that an audiophile friend referred me to, which got me interested enough to buy them. I am now enamored with the sound of my system in its current state, so I wanted to share my take on one of the more significant steps in how I arrived here.

Before getting into details about its form and function, I want to share my impression of what the Swiss Digital Fuse Box (SDFB) does for sound quality. It makes my components sound like they are operating without any limitation of power. It sounds open and unrestricted across the audio frequency spectrum. The sound is dynamic, detailed, defined, and there a sense of harmony and completeness about it. It’s like my components can now output their full frequency and harmonic potential.

A few things about me... I’m more of an artist than anything. I’ve been a music lover for 35 years and an electric bass player for 15 of those years playing in two bands, with which I was the bass player on one full LP recording and one EP. I’ve recorded, mixed and mastered my own multi-layered solo bass recordings and their backing tracks from sampled percussion using digital audio workstation software. I’ve also fine-tuned two of my custom car audio systems using DSP software and built, tweaked, and tuned a high end home stereo system (yes I said *tuned*, without using DSP) . Given this experience and the resultant development of a keenly perceptive and informed "ear", yet having no formal electrical theory or engineering background, I feel comfortable suggesting that the results of using SDFB can be likened to how audio sounds when the device producing it is operating with ample headroom. What does headroom sound like? The term headroom has different meanings in its use within pro audio recording/engineering and electrical circuitry operation, but they are related in a way that the end result sounds uncompressed, undistorted, fully dynamic, and expresses the sense of the effortlessness of unrestricted flow.

Does this sound like embellishment? It probably does. And I haven’t even mentioned the typical audiophile terms like "inner detail", "layering", or "rock solid imaging", nor have I even mentioned soundstaging attributes yet -- even though all of these qualities have also gone through upgrades due to the SDFB’s being installed. Am I merely in an irrational, excited state because my whole system now sounds much more expensive than it is? I don’t think so. I’ve been using all four SDFB units for three weeks consistently, and the initial excitement phase I was experiencing settled at least a week ago. I also think that the more components a system has which have replaceable fuses, the greater the potential upgrade from replacing each of those fuses with SDFBs. Like I said, I replaced all fuses in four of my audio components (six fuses in total), and there were notable step-up improvements in sonics as I progressively installed each of them.

Now I’ll describe the physicality of the device and how to use it. Then, I’ll try to describe specifics about why my previous fuse setup, which was a combination of Synergistic Research Purple and Master fuses, was completely replaced by SDFBs. These SR fuses were already a major upgrade in sound relative to the stock, generic fuses, and the SDFBs transcended the SR fuses in every discernible way.

These things have two separate parts that work together: 1) a small box that is inserted as the middle of a chain created between an audio component and the electrical outlet from which it draws power, and 2) a solid, cylindrical metal slug (referred to as a "Sluggo") which is the same size as the typical fuse. To install a SDFB, first, with your component off, plug its power cable into the AC socket on one end of the box, and on the other end of the box there is a male IEC connector (C14) which you connect to an outlet using another power cable or an adapter. I’m using a combination of two short, homemade mini-cables, and two generic adapters with my four SDFBs for the best sound (details shared in my Audiogon virtual system). Once the box is connected to a live electrical line, it will go through a brief setup period, and after maybe 8-10 seconds, you’ll hear a clicking sound and the small green LED will stay lit, indicating that charge is now allowed to flow through the box. The second and final step, with the component still off, is to replace the fuse(s) with a Sluggo. The device comes with both copper and brass Sluggos. You can then turn the component on. Don’t replace a fuse with a Sluggo without the SDFB in place because you’ll have no overcurrent protection and you’ll incur the risk of severely damaging your component and/or having a catastrophic fire in the even of a short circuit or other overcurrent scenario.

These units monitor current magnetically, and are calibrated to whatever fuse rating is needed when you order them. They are also calibrated to operate as either slow blow, or fast blow, like a normal fuse. When the set parameters are exceeded (too much current), a relay is switched to the closed position and charge is halted from flowing. Being non-sacrificial, you don’t need to buy a new one, you just unplug it from the outlet for about 30 seconds and it will reset the state. Then it can be plugged back in and reused. There’s no damage done to the device due to the overcurrent condition, unlike a fuse which melts due to high heat. Currently, devices being produced are to be calibrated at 10 amps max, so if there is some crazy high current event, perhaps then it could be damaged. I don’t know. I believe that’s pretty unlikely though. I think I remember reading that there’s a 15 amp version in the works.

There is some inconvenience involved with transitioning to SDFB due to the extra weight of the box (not that heavy, really) and extra length added to the power chain, as well as potentially requiring additional investment in more power cables. I feel that I achieved an optimal result for only about $200 of additional investment by using some DYI cable materials I had available, some high quality plugs to terminate the cable with, and some cheapo adapters from Amazon. For me, dealing with the extra weight and length to the cabling and putting in the work to create the best solution for connecting the SDFBs to my power conditioners has not been a big deal compared to the profound jump in sound quality. Totally worth it.

Before I went all SDFBs, the best configuration I found with SR fuses in my system was one small Master fuse in the LPS that powers the modem and router (I have an all-digital streaming system), two small Master fuses in the DAC, one small Purple fuse in the preamplifier, and two large Purple fuses in the amplifier. It’s worth mentioning that total retail cost of this setup is about 33% more expensive than the retail cost of my final SDFB setup. However, if you choose to buy a bunch of new, expensive power cables to connect your SDFBs, that would quickly become more the more expensive option.

I thought the SR setup sounded great at the time. I was impressed with the top end detail that a few of the Master fuses added to the fuller midrange and mid-bass sound of the Purple fuses which I already had. I’ve seen comments from others on this site in agreement about this. This combination is getting some praise. However, when comparing that sound to the SDFB sound, it was like the SR fuses are stuck at a level of trying to boost certain frequency ranges to make up for how restrictive a fuse really essentially sounds.

How do you improve on a small, low resolution, blurry, drab looking photo? Well, you manipulate it in Photoshop, of course! You try to crank up values of various visual (light-based) metrics to make it more attractive. However, that process will never produce something as close to the original subject as when you start with an ultra-high resolution, high-dynamic range photograph. You can’t "add resolution" to something that is intrinsically underpinned to a state of reduced resolution. To me, this is analogous to the task of starting with the tiny, resistive piece of wire in a fuse and trying to add crystals and various substances of specific resonant frequencies inside and around it to end up with something representative of the innate completeness of the source material.

Comparatively speaking, I was surprised to switch back to the SR setup and find that the soundstage was compressed towards the center. It was like there was a somewhat spherical haziness in center stage from which the sound was straining to emanate from, even with the Master fuses in play. I attribute this sense of "haziness" to a combination of reduced dynamic range, and a distortion of the frequency response coming from the system’s components. If the hypothetical ideal response for a natural sound (assuming the important aspects of room acoustics and one’s hearing quality are held constant) is essentially a linear response from top to bottom in both amplitude and purity, then the sound of the SR setup was now perceived as distorted and a deviation from linearity.

The sound of the SDFB setup is far more natural, far more detailed, and imparts a sense of ease while listening. I’m using all copper Sluggos, as their tonality is more natural to me than the brass versions. The soundstage has opened up with more dimensionality and all of that perceived haziness and limitation of full expression is (seemingly) completely gone. Images became more defined and image positioning is on a more advanced level. I can now perceive the two singers positioned near center and side-by-side in the mix, with a gap of about about a head’s-width between their mouths. This wasn’t perceivable with the SR fuses. The positioning of cymbals on a well recorded drumset are precisely locateable in space. Listening to Russion choral music, I can now hear individual tenor and bass voices and their unique tonal qualities. On one excellent recording of a solo harp, there’s beautiful overtones resonating that I’ve never been able to hear before. The sound is descriptively harmonious.

Over the course of a couple weeks, the sound of these units opened up. To begin, there was some minor coloration of the sound, but I’m not sure I can hear it any more. I think most of it has gone away as the units have burned in. Even with the minor coloration in the beginning, the immediate leap above the SR fuses in sound quality was obvious and highly desirable.

One last thing, I did a rough test of the overcurrent protection functionality, as this is obviously a major thing to get right and have working properly. I’ve been told that most refrigerators pull about 1 amp of current, so I used that as a basis for testing since I don’t have any more sophisticated method (I could use my desktop computer PSU which has a wattage display to achieve more accurate testing, but I’d rather not have its power suddenly cut and risk problems). I have two SDFBs calibrated to trip at levels below 1 amp, and two units calibrated at significantly above 1 amp. With each of the two sub-1A units inline with the fridge’s power cable (doing two test rounds for each unit), they immediately tripped and the fridge’s power was disconnected when I plugged in the power chain into the outlet. For the above-1A units (also did two test rounds each), the units did not cut power, and the fridge turned on and operated normally. I feel like this testing demonstrates enough for me to have a boost in confidence in the overcurrent protection operational integrity.

Being able to safely use solid metal slugs in place of fuses is wholly a paradigm shift in a high end audio system’s sound quality potential. These things deserve attention and I’m grateful to have been pointed to them.


https://verafiaudiollc.com

128x128gladmo

Showing 27 responses by thyname

Thanks for sharing @gladmo ! Excellent and informative review! I don’t think I will ever try these, as I am too risk averse to experiment with these kind of power things , but I enjoyed your review. Thanks for sharing 

I did speak Mark on the phone a couple times while I was trying to form a buying decision because I had questions about the two different fuse rating in my DAC, etc. He was super helpful and I got an honest and cordial vibe.

Totally agree with that statement on Mark. Great guy to deal with. I have dealt with him a few times, EQUI-CORE, and most recently for the Purons.

 

@cleeds : yes I thought the same when I read that link. But to be fair, there is this reference at the beginning, right after description:

Read the long detailed AudiogoN Consumer review:

Swiss Digital Fuse Box - "What headroom sounds like"

There is also the link to this thread when you scroll down. IMO, as long as proper credit is given to the original writer, and permission to post (not sure if @gladmo gave permission), all fair game. IMO

 

@wig what do you mean? Can you please elaborate? How did you replace the 4 fuses inside your KT88 amp with FB (what is FB?)? FB is the Swiss Fuse Box discussed here? I sincerely hope FB does not mean Facebook 😂🤔🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️😂😂

OK…. I caved. And bought one Swiss Fuse Box. Maybe because Mark is a pleasure to work with. Or maybe easy picking for my Innuos ZENith MK3, for which I was already using a SR Purple fuse (and before that the Orange). It’s pretty simple to deal with fuses on Innuos. So there is that.

All I can say is …. OMG! I know I sound like a teenage girl 👧 now 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️. More later when I really have a chance to listen to for an extended period of time this weekend, but first impressions are fantastic. And I am a big believer in first impressions.

 

Oh… and it was extremely easy to set it up. Very simple. It literally takes minutes to put to work, if you have connections ready. And I am happy the adapter I bought from Amazon (link below) works great in putting it directly to my power distributor (existing power cord on the other end to Innuos)

Link

 

You may be into something here @gladmo , thanks for sharing. I have not had any chance to experiment with polishing, or even trying the brass sluggo, as I have been very busy at work, but I continue to be amazed by the impact that the Swiss Fuse Box has in my system, even if used on only one component of my simple system. 

I finally got around to trying the brass sluggo today. Before I inserted it replacing the “untreated” copper sluggos to my Innuos ZENith, I polished the brass one, the whole procedure @gladmo shared, jewelry clothe, isopropyl alcohol 99%, handled with surgical gloves. Been playing for a few hours now. Hmmmm… I think I prefer the untreated copper, although still sounds fantastic, not much difference. Next weekend I will polish the copper sluggo, same procedure, before reinserting it.

 

Also, I look forward to the new sluggos Mark @verafiaudio will have available soon!

I had chance to swap in the freshly  polished copper sluggo just a few hours ago. I can say with certainty that I prefer the copper sluggo when compared to the brass one. The difference is audible. I can see some may like the brass one more though, and I can understand why. Of course, this is a matter of personal preference. They are both similar, and the respective use of each does NOT diminish the surprisingly good impact of the amazing Swiss Fuse Box.

 

In terms of polished vs. not polished, I cannot really tell much. Maybe my ears are not sophisticated enough, or maybe because there is only one of the three components in my chain that has the Swiss Fuse Box.

 

@ozzy : outstanding! Please let us know your impressions. I did think of the possibility of a solid silver sluggo as an option, and I was guessing (in my mind) that was probably what @verafiaudio had under his sleeves as the new sluggo yet to be distributed. Thanks!

@lalitk : the type of the sluggo has no impact whatsoever on the settings of the main unit, the fuse box. The sluggo is simply a piece of metal that replaces the actual fuse inside the unit. The fuse box is the actual “fuse” so to speak, programmable for either 1) slow or fast burn, and 2) Amperage. The sluggo is simply the size, small (20mm by 5mm) or large. That’s all. 
 

I have no idea in the price of the new and improved sluggos, but I would assume not much. The fuse box itself would remain unchanged, and that’s where the majority of the cost is IMO 

@fleschler : it sounds like you affluent with swapping fuses in your equipment. You should give the Swiss Fuse Box a shot! You may be surprised what it brings to the table.

@lalitk 

I’ve yet to figure out how I am going to implement a SDFB as the receptacles in my Mr. T are in very close proximity with one another. Implementing SDFB means sacrificing the use of next outlet. And I don’t want to use another pigtail PC in the signal path of my $5K HIJRI PC. 

Ah…If no spare outlets in your power distributor, maybe you should reconsider the use of a pigtail power cord, or even a short length power cord you may have laying around. Your Hijiri power cord would be connected at the leg going to your equipment, so I think it should still provide the goods to that component. Needless to say, there is so much we are willing to put up with little conveniences in our implementations. Sometimes something is too much to deal with, and we stop. I have been there, many times, so I certainly relate 

 

 

 

@jasonbourne71 :

I am now on my third incarnation!

May I ask, why do you change the usernames?

 

By the way, I love the choice of your “friends” in your Facebook! Juicy 🤦‍♂️

 

https://www.facebook.com/robert.jermantowicz/friends

 

My first user name (which will remain secret)  had over 4K posts.

Oooooohhhhh. Enigmatic 🤯😱
 

 

@jasonbourne71 : let’s try this again 

 

I am curious, what happened to your previous Jason Bourne moniker? You had 3,000 posts with it, all in the same vein https://forum.audiogon.com/users/jasonbourne52

 

 

Anybody here with an EE degree willing to discuss how it works? Or do I have to go over to the DIY forum?

Is that a threat? Besides, do YOU have an engineering degree?

 

@jasonbourne71 :

 

I am curious, what happened to your previous Jason Bourne moniker? You had 3,000 posts with it, all in the same vein https://forum.audiogon.com/users/jasonbourne52

Jeff or Earl Strickland: you are a dangerous man. I try to avoid you but you won’t let  me

jasonbourne71's avatar

jasonbourne71

63 posts

 

@recklesskelly:+1! Since joining in 2016 I have been quite a gladfly on Agon to the annoyance of the "my golden ears told me it is so" crowd!

Hmmmmm…. Your profile says you just joined earlier this month: https://forum.audiogon.com/users/jasonbourne71

 

What am I missing? 2016? Maybe under other usernames? 

 

@tubes21 : I think @klh007 knows how the Swiss Fuse Box works. He was asking (I think) how many components you are you using a Swiss Fuse Box on. In other words, how many fuse boxes you have and each used on what?

I can answer that as I just ordered two (one each): Solid Brass with the “Gold Immersion”, whatever that is, and silver. Cost for each is very reasonable, peanuts in the grand scheme of things. We’ll see… 

 

I have to say, Mark is a true gentleman, in the real meaning of a human being (forget about the business part), and a pleasure to deal with

@thecarpathian : if you have an equipment with no "MAIN" fuse (the power fuse that Mark mentioned above I believe), then I don’t think you can do this. For example, I inquired with Esoteric for my DAC (the N-01XD), and I was told this:

---------------

There is no “main” fuse for the N-01XD, but rather 4 separate banks of fuses. 1 bank for each of the left and right analog power PCBA, digital power PCBA, and network power PCBA; a total of 15 in all.

--------------

Which means that I am unable to implement the Swiss Fuse Box for that DAC. Or at least I don’t think I can.

@lalitk : 😂🤷‍♂️. It is what it is. Fuse rails inside would be fine (and untouched) if there was one main power fuse at AC input. Which there is none for Esoteric N-01XD. Having said this, the utility of the Swiss Fuse Box is simple: if one is, or was, able to replace fuses with any of the third party “audiophile “ fuses before (such as those from Synergistic Research), the Swiss Fuse Box will work.

I recently bought the Swiss Fuse Box for my most recent acquisition, the Jay’s Audio CDT3-MK3. As usual, Mark @verafiaudio is a true pleasure to deal with. This time around I also bought his pigtail (short AC power cords) for both my previous Swiss Fuse Box and the new one. These are very good short power cords for that price, and make the installation of the Swiss Fuse Box a breeze regardless of the power distributor or outlet you are using.

 

I have to admit, one of the factors influencing the purchase of the CDT3-MK3 was (of course amongst many other factors) the ability to swap the fuse from the end user. Very easy to do so. And the folks at Beatechnik in Singapore are very helpful with the technical specs for the fuse.

 

The end results with the Swiss Digital Fuse Box are once again, very good. Perhaps not as stunning as with my Innuos, but very audible nonetheless. A home run IMO. I just wish I were able to swap fuses on my other gear 😒