Streamers and their Fuses
I purchased the Aurender W20SE back in August and ran it on the stock 5 cent generic 2 amp 5mmx20mm slow burn fuse in it’s FURUTECH FI-03 Rhodium plated IEC Inlet. It sounds amazing in stock form the last 3 months… But 3 weeks ago I decided to upgrade the fuse in the W20SE to the Magic Audio Masterpiece M-1. The difference is not subtle. It feels like the potential of the streamer is unlocked, the detail, clarity and richness of tonal transparency is entirely transformed. My goal in HiFi is always holographic imaging of accurate instrument separation, this was improved as well. It is such a startling discovery I cannot listen to my Jay’s Audio MK3-CDT3 CD transport anymore, whereas before the fuse upgrade the CD transport was clearly the higher quality sound reproduction.
Anyone else experienced shocking results from upgrading their streamer’s fuse? I’d love to hear your feedback. All I can say is after burning this Audio Magic m-1 masterpiece in for a week it’s the only fuse I’ll put in my HiFi gear from now on. The purple fuse from Synergistic Research was my previous go to, but the audio magic m-1 is far superior in every possible way imho. 😉
@brandonhifi Yes you need a 10Mhz 75 Ohm master clock for your Aurender and CD player. Just get a Chinese one to start with but buy specific 75 Ohm clock cables, not BNC digital cables. The cables must be the same manufacturer and same length for best results. Good cables are $2k+ use 1m or less. |
@brandonhifi The Aurender only has one clock input and the Jay's has an input and output. You need two 75 Ohm clock cables to connect to the Aurender and Jay's clock input terminals. If everything is correct the Aurender will show clock connected (enable in settings). The master clock will synchronise the Aurender and the Jay's to the 10 Mhz clock which acts like a metronome. This should give a significant improvement in SQ. |
