I've posted my findings on the PS1 on this thread: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?ddgtl&1176210779&read&keyw&zzplaystationFor a little fun in changing the appearance of the PS1, check this out: http://www.interesting-devices.com/asp/product.asp?recorprod=1&product=192&cat=62&ph=&keywords=&recor=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=I'm going for the smoked black case myself, but the blue one is attractive too. As for trying the cro-treated IEC/C-7 adapters with IEC power cords, my friend tried one with his Kimber Select power cord and thought my PS Audio Power Punch C7 sounded better. Afterwards, he bought one himself and hasn't looked back. I have no doubt that the Kimber Select PC is a fine power cord, but one more interface in the power chain might compromise the sound a bit. On top of that, the PS Audio Power Punch C7 fits snugly inside the Playstations C8 recepticle. For only $50, I was very impressed with the quality of construction and the flexibility of the cable. Since the PS1 uses a potentially noisy (RF noise) switch mode power supply (SMPS), the shielding drained to the ground pin on the PS Audio power cord really helps in improving the dynamic range and frequency extension at both ends. My recommendation list on improvements with highest to lowest priority is: 1. Good-excellent RCA interconnect cables 2. Isolation feet like Isonodes or round 3M Bumpon feet (x3, two under front and one under rear) 3. Power cord replacement with PS Audio Power Punch C7 or other C7 power cords like the Furutech G-320Ag-18F8 or Oyaide L/i 15 dpc (recommend using a continuity checker to identify correct polarity) 4. Clean all audio and power contacts with residue-free contact cleaner 5. Replace power supply fuse with either Isoclean or Hi Fi Tuning 5mm x 20mm audiophile fuse. These really make a big difference and for only $25 or $30, it's a bargain. |
Unplug the PS1 and use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lift the glass fuse from the fuse holder. If your model is SCPH-100X or SCPH-550X, the fuse size is 5mm x 20mm. The current rating should be specified next to the fuse holder, the clamping clips you've described. If anything, the fuse itself should have some markings indicating its rating. If you use an Isoclean fuse, they are directional with an arrow pointing in the current direction. The arrow should point from the rear of the chassis toward the front of the chassis. Once replaced, plug in your PS1 and enjoy.
I would recommend a good power cord before investing in fuses. The PS Audio or Furutech C7 power cords are great.
I should also mention that Jeff Day's recommendation of the Walmart Woods Yardmaster Patio cord for speaker cables is an excellent one. I paid $7.88 for 40 ft. I didn't even add connectors; I'm using bare wire ends and the cables are surprisingly musical. If you like the PS1, try the Walmart White Lightning Moonshine speaker cables. |
Ablang:
For your Model SCPH-5501, you ought to try the Monster Cable GameLink 200 or GameLink 300 AV cables for the Playstation 2. You can usually pick these up at a used video game store for around $5 to $10. They're not the "ultimate" interconnect using the AV Multi Out connector, but they're much better than the cheap stock Sony AV cable. |
This morning, I decided to cut my Monster Cable Gamelink 300 AV cable down to 1m and solder on some Neutrik gold pin RCA connectors. I used the Cardas quad eutectic Silver solder compound. Using the AV Multi Out port bypasses the op amp buffered output on the RCA audio output jacks. I can't really hear any significant differences between using my Onix Blue interconnect cables through the RCA's and using the Monster Cable GameLink 300 cable through the AV Multi Out port. One thing is for sure, it still sounds good, and I was really enjoying my Jacintha and Bill Evans CD's. Perhaps the PS1 isn't the ultimate CD player, but it let's me enjoy my CD's and hear the interplay between musicians and the emotion of a perforance.
I agree Playstations as Red Book CD players may not be for everyone. The Playstation doesn't sound good if the laser intensity level isn't properly set, or if the signal and power connectors have heavy oxide buildup on them. I can't emphasize maintenance enough with these units. Most used units have been abused, or at least, not very well maintained. When I bought mine, I cleaned the laser lens, all connector contacts and adjusted the laser intensity level as described in Mick Feuerbacher's Web site. |
Update on the modified Monster Cable GameLink 300... After extensive listening and comparing it to my Onix Blue interconnects, I still prefer the Onix interconnects connected to the RCA outs. There's just more transparancy, more detail coming through like sustained piano notes and a much larger and better defined soundstage. In looking at the Monster GameLink cable, 3/4 of the cross-section is cheap mineral-filled PVC plastic. The conductors going to the RCA connects might be AWG 26 or 27 at best (lower gauge = larger diameter). The shielding is a thin foil wrap around each conductor. Compared to high end audio interconnects, these wires are very small. Overall, the sound is good, but I have heard better and I guess that's why we audiophiles pay more for interconnect cables. |
I just finished modifying the output stage of my Playstation following Mick Feuerbacher's output stage modifications www.dogbreath.de. I used two 4.7uF/50V Black Gate N electrolytic capacitors, two 22k/0.5W/1% PRP metal film resistors, Mundorf 24 AWG Silver/Gold hook-up wire, and WBT 4% Silver solder. I guess you can say I like boutique passive components. I'm listening to the modded player and it sounds really good. The difference between this and the tweaked stock unit is small, but the modified player sounds more refined in the highs and more detailed. The midrange is warm and there's more punch in the low end. The soundstage is larger and deeper with the modded unit. I suspect that the modded player will sound better with time as the Black Gate N electrolytic capacitors burn in. Overall, the qualities of the Playstation are retained and slightly more enhanced. The modified Playstation is an improvement over my tweaked stock unit (PS Audio Power Punch C7 AC power cord and Isoclean 2A fuse). I still think the tweaks really enhanced the performance of the stock Playstation and the output stage mod has just taken it to a higher level. I only started soldering a few months ago watching YouTube instructional videos on soldering. This has been the most challenging project to date since I was working in a very confined area and had to be careful not to damage any Surface Mount Devices (SMDs) on the Playstation's motherboard, but everything came out well. The effort was definitely worth it. If you own a Playstation, I highly recommend the output stage using the Black Gate N capacitors. Get them while they're still available. |
To Quaddy,
I just traced the power input from the AC connector and switch to the power supply input. Since then, I have found there are a few variations of the power supply board, so it might vary from unit to unit even though the model number (e.g., SCPH-100X, SCPH-550X, etc.) may be the same. I recommend using a meter to check continuity. To be honest, I haven't tried reversing the Isoclean fuse to hear any difference. All I know is that installing the fuse made a noticeable improvement in low end definition, further reducing background noise (very negligible to begin with) and dynamic response. I believe HiFi Tuning and other alternative fuses are "non-directional," so this may be a moot issue.
To Souterncross,
I plan to separate the power supply also and re-case everything. I'll replace some of the caps on the power supply and install a Furutech IEC inlet to allow use of a standard 3-prong IEC plug. For a DC power cable between the power supply and main unit, I'll use a high quality 5-pin DIN connector cable (a la Naim power supplies). I am also planning to fabricate a quality wooden cabinet for the main unit. The power supply will go into an extruded Aluminum project box to minimize RFI. I also plan to use higher quality Vampire RCA ouput jacks for the stereo output. I am very happy with the Black Gate N 4.7uF and 22k PRP metal oxide resistors for the simple output stage. The sound is very clear, detailed, extended and organic. Anyone who has modded a Playstation 1 has found out just how good the Playstation can be for Red Book CD playback. I don't think I could ever go back to a stock unit again. |
Souterncross, I thought you might be "Audio Luddite" on diyAudio. Your high gloss black Acrylic enclosure is beautiful and matches your McIntosh MC-240 very well. I'll post this link to your post on the Playstation 1 thread on diyAudio.com: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1651350#post1651350I recommend anyone reading this thread to check out Souterncross' detailed enclosure build. Besides my Playstation 1 mod project, I am also building a PassDIY B1 buffer preamplifier (same as First Watt B1 Buffer Preamplifier) and finishing my Class D amp. Needless to say, I'll be busy this coming Winter tinkering in my garage shop. |
As an update, I upgraded the power supply caps on my Playstation 1. I replaced the MKT X2 line filter cap with a Wima MKP10 cap of similar rating. Next, I installed a low ESR, high ripple current Nichicon CS electrolytic cap for primary stage smoothing. For the secondary stage smoothing caps, I installed a combination of Nichicon KT audio-grade electrolytics and Panasonic FM electrolytics with a bit more capacitance. After about 45 days of periodical listening, the improvements are quite noticeable. For one, the Playstation now has outstanding dynamic range. Where some crescendos and audio peaks would sound a bit compressed and the soundstage would collapse, the music just tracks smoothly with expanding volume and peaks without a hint of sibilance or loss of detail. If you know the RCA Living Stereo SACD hybrid disc recording of Mussorgsky's "Pictures at an Exhibition," you might know what I'm talking about. The bass is signficantly deeper and better defined than before. The level of detail has further improved in the mids and highs, especially with bells, cymbals, chimes and brush work. I am sure that another contributing factor is that the Black Gate N caps I installed in the signal output stage have more than 200 hours of play time now. The best part about these upgrades and mods is that the Playstation's special midrange texture and detail is still there. It's like upgrading from a Rega to a Linn Sondek LP12--you just retrieve more music from the disc while improving on musicality.
I recently scored on some 4.7uF/25V Sanyo OS-CON (Organic SemiCONductor) electrolytic caps that I've been experimenting with as DC blocking caps in the signal path. These might be even better than the Black Gates, and they don't have the long burn-in period that Black Gates require. We'll see... |
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The output stage can be modified with a choice of caps and resistors that would work with whatever downstream equipment you have in the signal path. I have modded a few Playstations with different caps in the output signal path, and obtained different results. Using the widely acclaimed Black Gate N or Sanyo OS-CON SC electrolytic caps seems to match up very well with tube amps where top end roll off could be a problem. I recently sold a modded unit with the Elna Silmic II caps in the output stage, as the buyer's tastes fit very well with the smooth treble response of the Elna Silmic II caps. He's using that unit with an SET amp and he is quite satisfied with that. It just comes down to personal preferences.
Have you also tried changing interconnect cables? That can largely influence the sound quality as well. |
I bought my Sony Playstation 2 DVD remote with IR sensor from a Game Stop (same as EB Games) for $5.00. It was used and needed a little cleanup, but it's been very dependable. It works very well with Model SCPH-1001.
eBay has some Sony-brand Playstation 2 DVD remotes with IR sensors listed, but some of these come from China and are cheap counterfeits that go bad after a couple months. Beware of where they ship from. |
Tholt,
The problem might be with the power supply. Depending on your unit's history, some components like the caps can go bad from prolonged exposure to heat inside the enclosure. If you are handy with a digital multimeter, you can remove the 7-pin connector from the power supply PCB and check that the voltages are either 7.2V, 3.6V or 0V. Keep in mind that the switching power supply is connected to 120VAC and some portions of the power supply are at higher DC voltages. These are lethal voltage levels. If you don't know how to work with power supplies, you should seek help from a knowledgeable technician. |
I recently modded a couple Playstation 1 Model SCPH-5501 units. In comparison to stock Model SCPH-1001, stock Model SCPH-5501 does not have the built-in RCA jacks--only the AV Multi-Out port. It does share the same AKM DAC and clocking system, and a much improved laser unit that is optimally positioned away from the power supply circuit board. In essence, the digital half of the playback circuitries are identical between both models. In modding this unit, I removed the DC blocking capacitors and muting transistors and installed the identical output stage as I did with modding Model SCPH-1001. For audio output connectors, I used Vampire CM1F RCA connectors. I also upgraded the power supply caps as I have done in previous Playstation mods.
So how does it sound? It sounds a bit better than my modded Model SCPH-1001, which I really like. I think the added detail, clarity and soundstage improvements come from using the Vampire RCA connectors. The laser unit operates more smoothly. In fact, the laser unit is self-calibrating, so it tracks much better than the laser units used in Model SCPH-1001. Better yet, these models are more readily available and at lower resale prices than Model SCPH-1001. In the world of Playstations as hi-fi CD players, this is the real sleeper. |
Andysolder,
I have found with "super" mods, one has to be careful not to completely change the sound signature of the original Playstation. Otherwise, it loses a bit of that Playstation "magic" that a lot of people find alluring. It does come down to personal preferences how far to go with the mods.
My recommendation would be to start with Model SCPH-5501 as it has the improved laser unit compared Model SCPH-1001. At the same time, it shares the same AKM4309 DAC as Model SCPH-1001. Your thinking that an improved suspension would be a welcome upgrade since the stock Playstation is suspectible to skipping with the slightest bump or vibration.
Rich |
Pescolar,
An upgrade from the stock power cord to the PS Audio Xstream Power Punch C7 is worth the $50 investment. The result is better dynamic range, a punchier and better defined bass and lower noise floor. An even better power cord is the Furutech G-320Ag-18F8. A friend brought his over and let me audition it with my Playstation. It's even more refined than the PS Audio cord, but it's also more than double the price. Jeff Day of Six Moons gave it a Blue Moon Award. |
The only adapters I know of convert a three-prong IEC to a two-prong C7 (or "Figure 8") connector, and not the other way around. You need a power cord that has the two-prong connector on the component end of the cable. If you don't mind using the IEC-to-C7 adapter, you can use any IEC power cord to power your Playstation.
As I mentioned elsewhere in these forums, a friend of mine has an expensive Kimber Select power cord that he used with one of those adapters for powering his Playstation. After auditioning a PS Audio Xstream Power Punch C7 power cord that I loaned to him for a week, he purchased a PS C7 power cord for himself. Apparently, the adapter didn't do that great of a job. |
Thanks Tholt. Email me for more info on mods. |
I haven't checked this thread in a while.
DaffyD54, thanks for the good word. I'm glad you're pleased with the mods. As the player settles in, you'll be amazed at what details and dynamic slam you hear.
Bottleflow, I use the Walmart White Lightning Moonshine (WLM) speaker cables with my upgraded Klipsch Forte IIs and modded EL84 push-pull tube amp. It shouldn't take too long for the cables to burn-in. The sound just becomes refined in all areas with use. I thought they sounded really good from the start.
Oldwiz, you have a nice set-up. I love my Klipsch Forte IIs. With your Fisher X-100, you must be in aural heaven. I believe the Forte IIs were made to play with EL84 amps.
I upgraded my speakers with crossover repair kits, new Titanium tweeter diaphragms and new internal wiring from Bob Crites (http://www.critesspeakers.com/). These upgrades have transformed my Forte IIs with tighter, better defined bass, a smoother midrange and treble and greater detail. I also installed some Pomona Electronics 3770-x Tellurium Copper 5-way binding posts that are just as good as the more expensive boutique binding posts from Eichmann, Cardas and WBT. With this set-up, I feel I have a system that rivals a comparable analog set-up.
This Spring, I am taking a vacuum tube amp building class at San Francisco's Randall Museum. We're building Direct Reactance Drive (DRD) 300B SET monoblocks, so I'll have to see if the 300B amps do better than my little EL84 push-pull amp. |
I've heard good things about the Yaqin tube buffer. For the Playstation, a tube linestage further improves the sound quality. The Playstation's output is around 1 to 1.5V, so some gain tremendously improves the overall sound quality. |
I am posting here for those who browse this thread. I recently purchased a mint condition Audio Research LS7 linestage to use with my modified Playstation 1. Even though it sold as an "entry-level" all tube linestage in ARC's line-up back in 1995-1997, this is an excellent linestage and allows all the detail through from the modified Playstation. Not only do I get exceptional solid bass and treble extension, but I also hear greater timbral detail, more space between the instruments/performers and that holographic soundstage that tube amps provide. The LS7 is transparent, and that added gain really makes a difference in extracting the most out of the Playstation. |
You'd be surprised with what some modifications and tweaks to your Hlly T-amp, Playstation 1 and Klipsch Forte II's would do. I have replaced the caps in my Forte II's crossovers, replaced the internal wiring, and the stock Phenolic tweeter diaphragms with Titanium diphragms from Bob Crites Speakers. On my Tripath TA2020-based T-amp (similar to the Hlly), I installed better Panasonic FM low ESR caps for DC decoupling and new signal input caps. Then, of course, I modified the output stage and power supply in my Playstation. I use the T-amp as a power amp with my Audio Research LS7 line stage preamp. A little DIY and about $200 in parts will transform your system to one rivaling a $2,000-$3,000 system. |
Not sure about splitting the crossover so you can run two amps driving the Klipsch Forte's. I'm perfectly fine with using one amp. A good preamp will provide the needed gain to bring the Playstation's low output to an acceptable line level, so that all your T-amp needs to do is drive the speakers. The Grounded Grid preamp is a decent circuit, but can be much improved with good parts and tweaks to the design.
For the most part, I am not a big fan of Chinese hi fi equipment. I know that some brands have decent quality, but I've mostly found that parts and build quality are really lacking. I've been burned too many times with Chinese audio goods falling apart and just not sounding that great in stock form. More often than not, I find myself repairing them more than enjoying them. |
You'll be surprised at how good the RCA interconnects made from the Wood's Patio cord from Walmart will sound. I made my first pair as described in Jeff Day's Six Moons article. The Switchcraft 3502A RCA connectors are very good and the Switchcraft 3502AAU Gold-plated, long body connectors are even better. Instead of using cheap Brass, Switchcraft uses a Copper-Sn alloy that's almost as good as Copper itself. They're very reasonably priced as Switchcraft mass produces them here in the U.S. They're designed for pro audio use and maintain a very strong grip. The Canare F-10 male RCA connectors are very good too.
The second pair I made, I stripped the white Vinyl jacket off the three AWG 16 conductors and made a tri-braided cable using the Switchcraft 3502A RCA connectors (similar to the Kimber PBJ). I used one conductor for the signal (+), and two for the ground (-). I was very careful to evenly braid the individual wires. I later compared these to more expensive cables I borrowed from friends including Kimber PBJ's, AudioQuest Diamondback's and Kimber KCAG's. The Kimber KCAG's won out as expected, but the tri-braided White Lightning Moonshine sounded as good as the Kimber PBJ's and trounced the more expensive AudioQuest Diamondback's. Compared to the original White Lightning Moonshine design, the tri-btraided cable was more extended and transparent.
I recommend that you put the interconnects through a long burn-in period before you make any judgments. Sending 2V or less line-level signals through these cables will not break these cables in quickly. However, once your interconnects are burned in, you'll be surprised just how balanced and detailed they sound from top to bottom.
As for the Walmart speaker cables, the best bargain dual banana plugs that work really well with the Walmart cable are the Neutrik NYS508. There's no soldering involved, as you only have to crimp on the connectors with set screws using a small screwdriver. Another good banana connector are the Homegrown Audio LOK Suregrip BFA connectors. These are similar to the Multicontact LS-4 connectors that Jeff Day recommends, but they don't require soldering.
I encourage you to check out Mick Feuerstein's Web pages on modiying the Playstation. Modding the Playstation really takes Red Book CD playback to another level. You'll really be able to take advantage of the Walmart cables then. |
