Might try a tube preamp


I’ve been toying with the idea of giving tubes a try and thought I would start with a tube preamp running to my SS amp and see how I liked it.    

After reading reviews and looking through some of the posts here on Audiogon I’ve been thinking of a LTA micro ZOTL or rogue audio RP-7 - each around $5k.   Thoughts on these?  

Or would I be better off looking for something else used here on Audiogon?  Maybe a ARC Ref 5 or LS-28?  I’m pretty new to tubes so am open to options.

Thanks
rshad0000
My post was primarily in jest, had no misspellings or punctuation issues, and I don't actually care much about Don Sachs although I assume he's a wonderful designer and a true mensch, and I do hope to someday be his friend so we can perhaps shower together and share vacations. Note that I refuse to practice any form of mirth control. Also, nobody cares about the most interesting part of my post which is the Don Ho reference, and that's a shame. I do think the tubes I'm using sound fabulous in the Freya, and am seemingly too old to care what anybody else thinks unless they absolutely agree with me. I will politely refrain from telling you what you can do with your Ken Rads.
Ken Rads on their own suck. They tend to be enormously microphonic, and completely lack dimensionality. What they do bring to the Freya table is tone, instruments sound real. The early 40's Raytheons add dimensionality. Chrome dome Sylvanias are bright, if you have sufficient high frequency hearing loss, they may sound okay. The really old Sylvanias are supposed to be something special, but who wants to spend 100 or more for NOS tubes that can last years, or days? All that said, if you are content with your system, that's great, until you try to pass it off as more than it is, then your going to called out.
My NOS Sylvanias are NOT bright, noted by most reviewers of these things, and I also use NOS USA Amperex tubes, and NOS RCAs...Instruments certainly sound real, which I can verify by listening to actual instruments I often use as a life long musician. I bristle at references to my hearing as I currently work with world class musicians in my capacity as a  professional live sound mixer...if this gets out I'm toast! I suggest you not threaten me as being "called out" for reporting things as I hear them, as It makes you seem somewhat desperate, cowardly, weak, and a little creepy.
In fifty years of tube Audio I have owned several hundred Sylvanias and none of them were bright which was why I bought them .Ones pulled from home organs are great with acoustic music .
Not bright assumes a neutral system. Nothing is bright with certain components. That they are not bright in your system is great. My system rides the razer’s edge, anything slightly bright added is immediately ear bleeding. For instance, Pasvane CV181 Treasure IIs are slightly bright, Sunguan Treasure 1s are neutral. I’d bet that the T IIs would sound pretty good in your systems. If I put my CS-7’s or B&W 801Ms back in, Sylvanias would sound better, but they have to play through crossovers then, and capacitors are sound sponges, so bright helps. In audio least is more. The fewer components the signal goes through is desirable. Beyond that is personal preference, some like it hot, I used to years ago. The last thing I go to in audio though is argumentum ad populum. Why, because far more  components sell than good ones, and many of those cost tens of thousands. Neutral, transparent, et. al. are extremely rare in a system. I don’t even begin to want to look back at the gear that I have gone through. Admittedly I haven’t had tons of money, but even expensive gear is argued over, Rolland is sark, some Krell gear is dark, etc., etc., etc., ad nauseam. So let’s agree to disagree, but don’t tell me what others think, I seriously doubt that their systems sound would impress me. It’s taken me a lifetime to get to a system where changing a resistor is generally obvious, I stress generally because I haven’t tried every resistor out there. TX2575s are good enough for me.