Lead shot VR4jr's

THe VR4JRs contain a separate compartment for the lead shot. The shot will not bounce around inside the main woofer box. Empty the shot directly into the compartment with the woofer box upside down. I found that a one liter water bottle with the bottom cut off makes a good funnel for putting the lead shot into the compartment. You may occasionally need to move the cabinet back-and-forth gently to redistribute the shot since it tends to pyramid as it pours in.

Once completed and reassembled you will notice an immediate and dramatic difference with the lead shot. Absolutely worth the effort. Be sure to use the spikes under the speakers once you've located them where you want them. Also, remember these speakers take about 500 hours to break-in fully. And, bi-wire them if at all possible. That short cable provided to connect the top and bottom cabinets is a compromise at best.

Do differently? Buy new points!!! The standard points that come with those speakers will crack, break and put a gash in your floor if you load them with shot. It happened to one of my local hi-fi buddies and he had to buy new revised points that could handle the added weight.

Arthur

Ditto on the new points. It happened to me with the VR-2's. Get some cones and it will help stop the base of the speaker from self-destructing. When you turn the speakers back over try to lift the speaker onto the cones instead of pivoting onto them.
Oh, and it does make a significant difference.

Can you recommend spikes? Should they be brass rather than aluminum? I do have hardwood floors, if that makes any difference.

Thank you very much for the advice
Jeff

I'm the person Aball mentioned. I contacted my dealer and he was able to get me the new version of the spikes from Von Schweikert for free. I also have hardwood floors and set my spikes onto homemade pads to protect my floors. The pads consist of 2 parts: a metal disk glued onto a felt backed phenolic furniture glide. The disk was made from galvanized steel electrical outlet box's knockouts with a small dimple drilled into the center for the point to rest in.

You might look into this tweak(toward the end of the article) as well- inexpensive, but efficacious: (http://www.vibrapod.com/Reviews/tas.htm).

Cford,
I just purchased these in June, how can I tell if these are the new or old version of the spikes? Good idea on the floor protectors, that's worth a try.

Yes. I forgot about replacing the speaker spikes. The cutsie ones provided tend to bend and break and VS will send you steel replacements/substitutes which are much stronger. However, I would skip that route and order replacement black-painted brass spikes from Parts Express for $20/set of four - two sets needed:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=240-715

These spikes are much better sonically; i.e. they make your speakers sound better than the replacement spikes from VSA. Plus, they come with disk floor protectors if you have wood floors, or the bare spikes themselves are designed to penetrate carpeting much better thanb the VAS spikes.

Hey Y'all,

The lead shot is very helpful but I used something different in my VR-2's. I used Micro bearings from Star Sound Technologies. This stuff is more expensive but it is safe to handle unlike lead shot. You will not need much for your speakers. I used 3 quarts per speaker. I would also highly recommend using Audiopoints, also from Star Sound Technologies, for under your speakers. I've been using them for years with amazing results. Just call Robert, a great guy by the way, at Star Sound and he can let you know what you'll need. I swear by Audiopoints and Star Sound Tech's spikes, speaker and amp stands. The performance is astounding and the qualinty is unsurpassed. Also, I can't say enough about how well Robert has treated me over the years. Good luck and enjoy your systems.......John

Jdodmead,
The old version of the spikes were thin hour and glass shaped while the new ones are tiangular shaped about 1 inch wide at the top. The old ones were black coated brass and I assumed that the new ones also were, I'll need to check. Also, 25 LB of lead per speaker is the minimum I'd use. I put about 40 in each of my speakers. One advantage of lead over miro bearings is because its denser, it takes less volumn for the same weight.

Better also wear a mask when handling the lead to prevent inhaling the lead dust.

Got the shot in and I am somewhat surprised at what a difference it made. Much tighter bass, I am very pleased with the improvement.
Thank you all very much for your advice.
jeff