Has anyone modified a Miller & Kreisel subwoofer

The V2b sub is a good sub. I will put out plenty of low clean bass. I have two of them set up for the left and right speakers. I made new cabinets, removed the plate amp to their own enclousure. I changed the wire from the plate amp to the sub. Added spikes to the bottom of the subs. I also changed the power cord to the amp.
If you find out what caps/resistors to change let us know.

If the sub has a foam surround - make sure it's in good shape and hasn't started to deteriorate . . . if it has, then get it re-foamed.

I take it that this is a sealed-box type . . . the first thing to try would be to put a bunch more stuffing inside the box - available at Parts Express, Madisound, and others. This will have the effect of making the sub a bit less efficient, and making its rolloff more gradual - this will generally reduce the amount of energy in that boomy region. It's cheap, easy, and reversible.

E-mail your question to Dave Fabrikant at Ascend Acoustics as he a former M&K engineer who worked on many of their earlier subs.

Thanks

Newb I caught your response late.I appreciate your help
just to make sure I got the right site is this primarily surround sound speaker systems?

Also thanks Kirkus

cheers

Yes! Contact the "Electro Mavin" in Athens, TN. He purchased all of Ken Kreisel's last iteration of sub drivers, the "Superfast Deep Bass." They are a direct replacement driver and work well in the V-2b. Check e-bay or do a search.

Now, these are single coil drivers, but perform very well. I use a Y-adapter, and think the two sides of the plate amp might be summed. Anyway, the sound is vastly improved. My mains are Zu Druid speakers, 101 db @ 1W and are very fast, quite sensitive. Frankly, the old M&K drivers sounded like mud when paired with the Druid mains. But now, lower octaves slide seamlessly under the the midbass and create no "hump." I was so pleased that I bought another old M&K V-2b and replaced that driver. I like the forward firing of these most attractive twins for detail and impact (my music interests are quite broad). Quite a bargain.

I am experimenting now by de-coupling them from the floor by raising them on Lovan racks. It is apparent that assymetrical placement loads the room better. Good Luck and let me know how you make out.

I have an M&K V2-B that needs a new amp. I replaced the driver with one from Mavin a few years back and now the amp has died. The original amp does not appear to be one of the ubiquitous Class D plate amps. There’s a plate on the back with some circuitry but in the bottom of the cabinet there’s a medium sized transformer and two decent sized caps. When I replaced the driver I simply connected the wires from the old driver to the tabs on the new driver. EZ-PZ. Dayton makes a reasonably priced class AB subwoofer amp the would fit in the existing box if I enlarge the hole. My question is if I can simply connect the driver to the Dayton amp or are there other considerations? The driver is rated for 250W RMS and the amp outputs 273 @ 8 ohms so they seem a good match. Thanks- hoping this old thread might revive, will also search for a newer one.

hi, i recently purchased v2b sub that does not power up.  i checked the external fuse and it looks fine so i pulled the plate off the back and i see that there is a spot for a fuse on the internal side but no fuse in it. is that the way its supposed to be? i was wondering if your plate amp looks the same on the internal side? does it have an internal fuse?