Crossing over, with Gallo Nucleus reference

Well, I am here where I thought I would be. I have one Nucleus opened up and in a state of non-function. It appears that there some sort of a custom "high pass crossover" that interrupts the tweeter. This was a melted mess, when I opened it. Not much in the way of identifying marks. Anyone have any ideas on how I can salvage this speaker? Tweeter still works. The techs at offer No advise.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You might speak with Pierre/Mapleshade or Ron Bauman/InSound:202-965-5320.They have modified these speakers and have an understanding of the CDT tweeter circuit requirements.
Thank you for the information. A solid lead.
I had exactly the same problem a couple of years ago. I investigated the matter for a long time before the surgery.

There is a capacitor in the tweeter transformer that measured 5.7 uF, brand is infinicap (first problem - no more of them. Gallo recommended substituting them for Dynamicap - the next product of the same brand). I used a 6.1 uF Auricap and never sounded right - I came back to the Dynamicap. The resistor is a 5 ohm RS type - I doubt that it is damaged.

You will need as well replacement for the rivets. These are a discontinued part in most places, and if you want to order then in the factory the minimum production run is 18.000 units - for several lifes!

I found them in
The product (an R-lok expansion rivet) reference number is 0755102. The order quantity is 4500 but they are nice and gave me justç 500 (of which I have spent 24). You will need as well the rivet machine, R-lok ref. no. 8005999

Finally, the black, sticky goo that seals the woofers and the tweeter, and that is used to damp/glue the capacitors to the transformer as well, is a 3M product, Windo-weld, used in the automobile industry. 3M ref. 08610 or 08611 or 08612 (different thicknesses)
If you haven't already dealt with all this, you will gain improvements by moving the network to outside the sphere, removing the resistor completely, bypassing teh 6uF cap with a .1, remounting the tweeter forward 1.5 inches, canting the speakers back to align the woofers and tweeter and rerouting the tweeter wires directly out the back of the "can" to the transformer. I will evtually ost some pictures on my virtual system page.
If you would like a photo of the modibications Piedpiper is speaking of,please view my stsyem post.
got my pics up as well now.