Gentlemen,
thank you for the excellent responses.
The speakers in question are von Schweikert VR4's; I've learned they have an impedance low of 3.8 ohms at 25 Hz and a high 0f 19 ohms at kHz. Crossover between mids/highs and woofers is at 150Hz. High/mids and woofers are physically separate (stacking design).
I would be using Rogue Magnum's for the high/mids, bass amp(s) not yet determined. The Rogue amps have an input resistance of 200k ohms.
Hiram |
Hello, Sean, I'm not sure I understand (would not be a first!).
I thought, in a case such as the VR's, when the lows/mid are physically seperate (the speakers must be bi-wired or jumped to work) there was no crossover (between mids/woofers) to worry about.
I know there's other crossovers inside the speakers, but I don't know how practical it'd be to by-pass those (between the mid/tweeter). Or is there another croosover or filter involved right after the binding posts (ha, I hadn't thought of that!, maybe I'm begining to undestand?)
KP |
Hello, Rives, I think I understand now. I have sent Albert an email asking about how to best bi-amp. From a previous email, he strongly suggested biamping but did not get into technical details.
Drrasta, yes, I have though of the Mod 5 conversion. I still would like to bi-amp them, in either form. I've checked with Albert and the crossover point between the bass and mids would not change, so the biamping would work fine before and after conversion.
Have you heard them before/after the conversion?
thanks,
KP |
I though having an active crossover would handle all the problem, since it would sned the "highs" and "lows" to the resprective amps, and them have one amp on the high/mid module and another on the bass.
What I'm reading is, then, that even after splitting highs and lows into the correct speaker input post, I still have to worry about the inside of the speaker?
Wish I had a dry erase board we could share, it'd be so much simpler! I'll try anyway, this is what I thought!
pre---xo---hi amp---self-contained speaker box (high/mid)
|---lo amp--- " " " (low)
So in this case the mids/lows are phisically seperate at the speaker level. This won't work?
KP |
Sean, I see what you are saying.
I've seen your other post. You, my friend, aree the Poster Chilp for multi-amping. I was hoping you'd jump on this thread!
So in my case, I'd need to at least tri-amp for max results (that beign the total removal of all passive crossovers). question mark.
I'm waiting for Albert's reply.
KP |
Ah! good point, I'd have to ask Albert.
Now, let me ask:
Bass is actually 2 woofers, crossover differently.
quad-amp?
Alber says to get the most from his speakers you should bi-amp, tubes on top SS on the bottom.
So, if I were to say, biamp now, could I get real benfits and then if/when I tri-quad amp really go into the stratosphere with dynamic power? Hum, why doen't this sound farfetced to me anymore?? SET for the highs, ogues for the mids, 2 SS amps for the bass... ahhhh.... I hear the siren call... maybe this is "the direction" question mark.
And, yes, "Poster Child for Multi Amping", I'll stick to that! Oh, and certainly you'd be in the group photo for folk who make this hobby fun. But heck, that's just my opinion and I'm sure it's full of holes (also part of the fun, huh?)!
Taking a break from the music to keep up; tubes are nice and hot; breeze and cool outside!
Hiram |
Guys, you are great!
Couldn't find info on the Krell. I need SE, not balanced. What does the Krell provide?
Any other especific xo's to look for?
As per Rives, looked up Marchand, saw the XM9L for $400. How's this model?
The Bryston 10 seems to go for 1200 or so, the Krell for 1500 (used on these).
KP |
here's a curve ball:
Any thoughs on using the Innersound bass amp from the new Eros?
Roger told me he can change th xo point to anything I want.
It also includes a remote volume control; 600 wpc.
KP |
Interesting, Ral, Albert sent me an email staing as much.
The trick then, is to find amps with similar sensitivity.
So now, to look for an SS amp to match 99 magnums?
KP |
Ral, I will.
I'm looking for ss amps with adjustable gain; should make life easier.
KP |
OK, I posted this in the wrong thread, hehe! Hope I didn't cause too many blank stares!
I asked Albert the best way to bianp the VR's, here's his info:
Hello, again,
for facilitating active biamping of the speakers, does anything need to be
done to the speaker itself?
No. The internal circuitry divides the signal between the two amplifiers, so you don't need to change the speakers or buy an electronic crossover. Just connect the preamp or CD player to both amps with a "Y" connector and interconnects. Just make sure that both amps have a similar input sensitivity, so that they play at the same volume level. The output power has nothing to do with this, we use an 8 watt SET amp on the mid/tweeter unit and a 200 watt solid state amp on the woofers with complete integration! Albert |
