Attn: Speaker DIY expert

" For top-caps I`ve used Intertechnic SCR tinfoil. Needs a few months to open up but then they dissapear totally. Not too overpriced ;)"

Sleepy head, here I`m doing a tragic mixup. My long time favorit top-end cap is the Intertechnic KP-SN tinnfoil.Just invisible, perfect and just a little pricy.

But a warning; the worst polypropylene caps I`ve ever heard are called SCR; black w. orange ends. Even if someone give them to you, don't use them.

http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/setpage.pl?http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/dyndok.pl?dok=2012665.htm

For lower freqences I`ve used the 600V version of Solen MKP. To improve the flow-capasity I run three of them in paralell, like 3x33uf to get 100uf. Combined with thick solid-core wiring this gives a horsekicking free sound.

Ceramic wirewound resistors (non-inductive type) and polypropelene caps (double layer film) and air core inductors (mounted with brass of course) - appropriately rated - these get my vote. Practical and relatively inexpensive (generally a few dollars each).

Elctroid is right on. I would not replace the inductors, unless you can account for DCR change, and can measure both old and new inductors yourself. If the Rat Shack inductoirs are really bad, I suppose if you stick to the same wire gauge and just upgrade the inductor to solen you would be OK.Maybe you could ask the original designer.

I would avoid foil inductors also as they are a bear to solder, unless you know how to do this. I think Sonicap will make the cap values you need, and Mills are 1 percent tolerance. Make sure you have enough room for the new parts.