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  3. 1246510747

Need Zu Definition Pro Subwoofer Array Amp for $1k

Hello everyone! I'd appreciate your guidance. I also sent an email to Adam at Zu to get his feedback.

I'm trying to match a stereo amp or pair of monoblocks (or dual mono amp) for my Zu Pro speakers passive woofer arrays. The front arrays are driven by a Yamamoto A-08S.

My other gear:
Canary CA-903 Line Stage Preamp
Ayre CX-7e CDP
Roksan Radius 5 TT w/Zyx Airy S cart.
Canary CA-400 Phono stage preamp
Rane PEQ55

My budget for the subwoofer amp is around $500-$1000, though I could stretch that a bit if an amazing deal surfaced. After spending a few days reading through MANY, MANY, MANY posts and on-line reviews, here are the options I'm considering:
Emotiva XPA-2
Nomad Niagra
Classe CA-100 or DR-9
Carver Silver 7t monoblocks (a SS copy of the Silver 7 tube monoblocks)
Odyssey Stratos
Belles 150A Hot Rod Version or 350A
McCormack DNA-1
Krell KAV250a or KST-100
Bryston 2B-SST or Bryston 4b Pro
Musical Fidelity Supercharger 550K - ok, this is out of my price range, but do I need this much power to control the woofer array?

One other consideration is I'd prefer, though not a requirement, that the amp accept XLR connections b/c I must pass the signal from my preamp through the Rane PEQ55 to the subwoofer amp. This will allow me to filter the signal below 40-65hz and below for the subwoofer array (the subwoofer drivers go down to 16hz and up to 1khz). The Rane PEQ55 has XLR connectors only and RCA/XLR cables are harder to come by on the used market (I prefer not to use cheater plugs), so an amp with XLR connectors would be a better option for me. Of course I can get around this with an XLR to RCA cable, but I'd prefer XLR to XLR.

Thanks,
Mark

PS I found a post on Agon about the Pro woofer arrays that was kind of helpful:
12-01-06: Miklorsmith
While the rear arrays of the Pro's seems easy, with their high efficiency, my experience has been anything but.

First, I had a Bel Canto e.one 300, which should have plenty of output. It didn't. Sean at Zu told me to try a conventional Class A/B amp. I found an Adcom 555II, which has 200 wpc and should have been a champ. It wasn't.

I then tried an inexpensive NAD amp which fared no better. All these amps had the same problem of insufficient output and insufficient definition.

Then, I tried the amp circuit of a 60 wpc Audiolab amp - here we go, much better! Then, I went to the local stereo shop and traded the Adcom for an old Hafler 220 DH, with about 110 wpc. I'm sure it gets better, but this amp at $210 is the best I've had.

I'd call Sean and get his votes. Zu has certainly heard more Pro setups than anybody and can surely direct you well. Don't accept anything less than superlative bass. And, don't be afraid to cross over higher than 40 hz. Try 65 hz, which feels to me to blend very well with the fronts and provide some excellent midbass pop which is not possible with the front array.

INSERT FROM ME: The poster ultimately went with a Crown K2 amp which he swears by, though I'm not leaning toward the Crown amp because of the other options I listed above.
aceboympk
aceboympk OP
33 posts
 
Thanks guys for your feedback. I've been manually working with the Rane and I simply know that I'm not capable of dialing in the sound the way it should. Although I've been able to get it close on a number of occasions, the sound is not where I want it to be.

[B]So, I have a questions regarding the dbx DriveRack PA.[/B]

The Velodyne SC-1250 has a great function to press a button and the amp calibrates itself for the room. Does the dbx DriveRack PA offer similar functionality? I read a review and it sounded like that is what the writer intended.

If the dbx DriveRack PA doesn't have an AUTO EQ function that calibrates itself, what other solution is out there? Should I have someone come into my home with software and set it up, or should I buy another piece of equipment that would work like the Velodyne? Unfortunately, the Velodyne is engineered for their SC series of subwoofers which only go down to 22Hz. The Zu Pro's go down to 16Hz, so I want a solution that will help me calibrate everything that needs to be calibrated because I don't have "Golden Ears".

BTW, I bought the Behringer EP2500 based o reviews and significant bench testing done by another forum's member. It is a FANTASTIC amp for the money. In fact, it rivals many of the amps at 2-3 times the price. I simply need to replace the fan b/c the fan used is for pro conditions and I'm using the amp for home use. There's a lot of information, pics, and detailed steps to replace the fan. I already found the fan, so it's a matter of installing it. The noise level will drop from about 45db with the existing fan to under 19db with the new fan. Owners who replaced the fan cannot hear from their listening positions and NO ONE has had a problem running the amp with the replacement fan even in HT applications. A $10 fix and about 30 minutes of time. Not bad!

Thanks again,
Mark
undertow
1,033 posts
 
I used the Drive rack PA... This was my solution over the Rane simply due to cost, and ease of saving the settings in the drive rack opposed to going back and forth on the rane dials.

I don't know if its the answer, the Rane should be virtually as good in theory, but there is a few more toys on the DBX.

There is a standard EQ. and you can change the "Q"? etc... To really work it into a more accurate range I guess, but its hard to say whether its gonna be a perfect solution or not. It has its major learning curves as well, it is a bit complex and navigating the menu of it and saving settings etc... Will take some time and changes. I have not had anything with that for over 2 years myself so I don't even remember where I finally ended up. However cost vs. the Rane to performance I can't say first hand. It did take about 3 months of experimenting and tons of different types of music to do this by ear, measuring might help, but I don't have much suggestion on that.

Good Luck
macrojack
1,303 posts
 
I use a Drive Rack PA too. When I had my Def Pros I used a Rane. I think the dbx is far more versatile and easier to use. There is a huge learning curve but it offers near universal control for only about $400 from Amazon. I bought the dbx matching microphone along with it for another $90 or so. This allows for RTA room correction which the Drive Rack does for you.

In my experience nothing touches it for this kind of money. It is a serious professional sound control device. And fun to play with, as well.
dotsystem
81 posts
 
I spoke with Zu awhile back and they were not very enthused about the dbx auto-EQ feature.

I am not familiar with the PA model but if you buy a dbx product that is supported by their DriveWare software (model 260), you can run a serial cable to an USB/Serial adaptor and configure from you listening seat. You can use graphic EQ, parametric EQ and notch filters (extreme parametric EQ) all in the same configuration. You can apply gain boost if needed. You can see a graphical representation of these, choose among crossover types, etc.

For converting RCA to XLR, there are transformer-based units available from Jensen and others that should work better then simple adaptors.

You could use mild EQ along the crossover rolloff curve to compensate for an overdamped bass amp.

There is a free program SynRTA available from Liberty Instuments that will allow your to see you room response in real time as you make adjustments with DriveWare. Resolution is up to 1/48th octave.

http://www.libinst.com/SynRTA.htm

Also you can use a program like XTZ (easier to use than Bare) to identify parametric EQ and notch filter settings.

One track I use for setup is Line Dancing With Monkeys off of Jeff Beck's 'Jeff' cd. It will let you know if you have any bass issues.
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