What size subwoofer to get?


This question is for 2 channel stereo use 50/50 rock/classical music. I have floor standing speakers rated down to 35hz on axis and instead of getting expensive larger speaker want to look at adding "powered" subwoofer to slightly extend bass. Three models are available:
10" woofer 30hz
12" woofer 25hz
15" woofer 22hz
All these models have adjustable crossover frequency cut-off
50-150 as well as adjustable volume. What size is best to get, my concern is getting too much bass that is hard to dail back and becomes overwhelming. Or is it better to get largest subwoofer and not worry, volume control will be able to effectively tailor sound and control bass?

This is my first subwoofer so need some general advice from members who use them, thanks.
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PSB made a very nice sounding passive subwoofer called the Subwoofer 1 in the late 80's early 90's. I just purchased one used for really cheap and it works fantastic with my tower speakers of 86 db sensitivity. (The sub is 88) The speaker level high pass is 6db per octave (fairly shallow) so your mains will be still producing some lower bass and not cause collapse of all the bass to the sub. The sub also has a set low pass crossover in it as well I think. This unit is very musical and ideal for a music system. I found most powered subs being sold today very boomy, high distorting regardless of the convenience of Level control and Crossover controls etc. You have to spend $700 U.S or more to get anything half decent (ie Paradigm PW 2200). My room is similar dimensions to yours and at 100db or less the system sounds excellent. Make sure your main amplifier has adequate power into 4ohm load. This sub is a stereo unit (2 8's) which are high compliance. It can also be configured for mono. The sub seems to be very accurate. Try to find one of these used! I only paid about $70 U.S for mine. The only negative is that it is large 22" X 24" Good luck with your system.
Remember...when buying a sub...you are also buying an amp...the size of the driver is really irrelevant...although some purist find them too "thumpy"...I do think Sunfire subs for 2 channel sound are amazing(Bob Carver claim to fame have always been his amps...and we all know what happened after he left Carver)...a friend has them with Maggie 1.6s...which are notorious for sub mating issues..and they are tight,fast,and very musical...a more laid back type of musical sub can be found by REL...and to echo Sean's comments...a garbage sub will only call attention to itself in a 2 channel set up...and surprisingly...since I am not a huge fan of their speakers...B&W makes some pretty darn good subs too...
No discredit to your PSB speakers...but i would pass on a PSB sub...a sub is kind of "icing on the cake" for a system...you want it to be just right....
Also...listen to Danner...this is exactly what RIchard Vandersteen has been saying for years...and why Vandy only makes full range speakers...the crossover for sub/sats is just way too high...good advice...
Danner's comments about surface area only cover part of the equation. Not only is surface area important, so is the amount of displacement. In order to achieve high levels of displacement, a "long throw driver" or one that is capable of making quite a bit of excursion is required. This is especially true if one wants to or is stuck using a smaller driver. As such, one can find an 8" driver that actually displace more air than a 12" driver. It can do this even though it actually has a MUCH smaller surface area due to the longer stroke that it can take. The downsides to such an approach are that the driver will be harder to control due to increased amounts of reflected power and may generate higher levels of distortion.

Like anything in life, there are trade-offs involved. You have to weigh the variables and pick the lesser of two evils. It is rare to find any given product to be a "clear cut" winner in every category. Sean
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