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Motor repair for Goldmund Studio TT /w Pabst motor

Well, either I am seriously forum challenged (a possibility) or for the second time my thread on this subject has been removed and is not in the archives. I thought they archived everything, but I guess not. Moderator, could you please stop deleting this. Every time you do I lose all the posts from forum members.

I sent my motor to an electronics firm in California recommended by a friend in the industry. They took one look at it and wouldn't touch it because it had electronics in it and, I guess, they don't do that stuff.

The good news seems to be that the motor windings are very likely ok and the problem actually seems to be related to the internal electronics parts.

Since I saw smoke come out of the motor during my initial investigation of the problem, I had thought the windings were compromised. Removing the bottom cover of the motor reveals a circular circuit board but also visible through a gap where the wires enter the motor are some additional electronics parts. So, when the motor was returned to me I set about disassembling the damn thing myself. In addition to removing the bottom cover, this required removing a couple of C clips and other various bits.

I was expecting to see some heat damage but everything looks fine. There are a lot of Caps, Resistors, Transistors and other three terminal devices in this thing. I am leaning toward the theory that one or more of these transistors have failed and I will be testing them to see if I can locate the problem.

Word on the street has been that Pabst of Germany went out of business in the early '80s. However, in the latest issue of TAS I noted that the review of the Raven AC 3 TT mentioned that it uses a Pabst motor.
willster
willster OP
66 posts
 
Thanks for the info. I ran across this discussion of using a Dual motor quite some time ago and am not quite ready to butcher my turntable in order to make the Dual motor fit, although it might come to that.

I can send pictures to anyone who wants them, but I don't have a website where I can post information.

At this point, I think my motor is fixable. I just put too much faith in the wrong guy. I may end up doing the work myself since no one else has proved reliable. There appears to be a dead short somewhere and I don't think the motor windings are damaged. My current top suspect is a voltage regulator. So, if I can sort out where the fault is, I should be able to affect repairs. I have a good understanding of electronics, but I don't have any experience troubleshooting.

Each failed attempt at finding repair help has at least revealed additional info about the motor and it's condition. Hopefully, at some point the accumulated insights will reach critical mass and I'll get results, either by doing it myself or by finding appropriate help.

Thanks to all who have taken an interest. I do appreciate it.
nsgarch's avatar
nsgarch
2,524 posts
 
Willster, you're nothing if not thorough! Please come back and update this thread as you progress.

One other idea I had (which at this point I'd not be surprised to learn you've tried) is to e-mail the fellow that has this site: http://de.geocities.com/bc1a69/index_eng.html
He may have other sources we don't know about. Good luck.
johnhaines
32 posts
 
Thank you W. I am also hunting for a Goldmund Studio with T3-F arm..no real luck yet. I tend to shy away from ones in the NYC tri state area that are not from original owners. I am in Newport Beach CA now.
nsgarch's avatar
nsgarch
2,524 posts
 
Hi John, the T3-F arms CAN be made to work, but they're a real PITA! And depending on your environment (changes in temperature and humidity) they don't hold their settings very well. Additionally (as with all linear trackers to some degree,) they are hard on cartridge cantilevers. And unless the arm comes with the latest PL8 control unit, it's 'no deal' (there are many reasons for this.) BTW, I have never seen a PL8 that is marked 'PL8' on the front panel. So you have to find a PL-7 and then check the rear panel ;~)

Without trying to talk you out of a Studio, I have a second, never used, Studietto (with JVC quartz controlled motor.) It's in PERFECT cond. (including a pristine dust cover!) and I have the threaded Goldmund cone feet and Goldmund reflex record clamp to go with it (those two items alone are more than 300 bucks each if you can ever find them!)

BTW (and this is important -- a lot of people don't know it): The Goldmund reflex clamp is essential for the correct operation of either the Studio or the Studietto turntables. Their platters have a concave surface, and the record has to be pushed down into the concave surface by the clamp (a simple record weight won't do it.) A SOTA reflex clamp is the only currently available clamp that will also work, but then the dust cover won't close!

A lot of people say the Studio sounds better. I have no idea what they're talking about! Maybe it's some kind of 'vintage snobbery', or the fact that (due to the expensive wood base) the Studio cost more. However, due to that enclosed base, the Studio is almost impossible to dial in properly! Both turntables suffer (identically) from thin bass response, and resonance issues. The solution (which elevates their performance into the realm of $15,000+ turntables!) is to replace the springs with Sorbothane.
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bobbit
4 posts
 
"Both turntables suffer (identically) from thin bass response, and resonance issues."

Wow, not my experience at all. My Studio has amazing bass, solid foundation. Never thin. And zero resonance issues. Tried Sorbothane once and it killed dynamics and energy. Became clinical. Also the T3, once it is set up and tightened down can't really change so again, I'm not having the same experience you are.
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