Tube Pre and SS Power? Or the reverse?

I'm more into the 'vintage' end of audio, so may not be entirely applicable to the OPs situation... but -

I have found the best combination (to my ear anyway) with is the tubes in the preamp and solid state for the power amps.

I run a modified Dynaco PAS-3X preamp into dual Mac MC2100s set up as monoblocks. This gives me the 'warmth' and presence of the tubes coupled with a basically unlimited power reserve (210 wpc out of each MC2100)... the other key is to have speakers capable of utilizing both the expanded bottom end subtleties as well as that high power reserve that such a combination brings to the table.

End result is as close to zero distortion / "muddiness" on those low bass / kick drum notes as is possible within the constraints of a 'vintage' system; combined with a better level of detail and nuance than either an all - tube or an all-SS setup could provide.

Going all tubes looks the 'coolest', of course - but unless your bank account is unlimited, you will face a much lower power output ceiling going with tube amplification. Some will argue that the higher power is not really needed at normal listening levels; I would offer that there is a distinct sonic advantage in having such a huge reserve to handle the millisecond power demands really impressive low notes put on an amplification system...

I always advocate more power than seemingly needed. Yes, you can feel this power reserve when you have it.

Another thought is that tube watt often feels more powerful than ss watt. There was a discussion here on Audiogon about it. 

I was in @inna ‘s camp until I switched to tube amps… very different… more watts matter far less and more nuanced bass… less simplistic slam.

ghdprentice, I agree, but when I switch my VAC from ultralinear to triode mode, that halves the power, the difference is striking - ultralinear is so much better even at low volume. Well, with my particular speakers, of course.

@inna

When I switch my Audio Research Ref 160s from ultra linear to triode mode (also halving the power) I cannot hear the difference... except in the added warmth and realism. No change in dynamics or loudness.  I am astonished every time I do it. 

I originally went from a Pass 350 wpm to this 140 wpm amp. This sounded much more real... I quickly switched it to triode mode 70wpc and prefer it without reservation to the 350wpc Pass. 

I’m not sure exactly what that implies.