Speaker Jumpers

You can easily fasten the LF cables directly to the HF and MF cables internally at the terminals.  Therefore no need for jumpers or biwires. Just direct wires to wires internally fastened to the corresponding +ve and -ve terminal. I reached out to Klipsch.  

But then you don’t have your $4000 an inch cable going to a $5 binding post, and then into your $1 a foot internal wire going to the drivers. 

That was sarcasm, but seriously, it makes you wonder why people don’t remove the internal speaker cable and take their exotic speaker cable and directly solder it to the crossover network/drivers? Has this been done? 

I even mentioned above one should use the same jumpers as speaker cable, but I don’t know this from listening experience, I am just reciting this as that is what I have read. Think about it though, after the binding posts the signal then goes into some low-cost internal speaker wire that has a length longer than the jumpers are, so I am starting to question this. Unless of course the internal speaker cable is of excellent quality; I know my internal speaker wire is silk covered copper from Duelund, so maybe I should try some Duelund speaker cable? Wilson’s have Transparent cable internally, so it makes sense to use Transparent, but many trial different brands and end up choosing something else, hopefully not Ansuz. 

Any idea what cable is inside the Klipsch @fire_water ? 

@mclinnguy I totally agree with you.  Unfortunately Klipsch customer service has this to say.  Are you ready for this nonsensical response?

"Hi Michael. I reached out to our senior technical advisor team and they are saying the speakers are not designed to work that way. The speakers slit wiring between the drivers to allow for bi-ampability, which some people prefer"

Obviously the terminals allow bi-amping. But you don't have to be an engineer to figure out that what can be bridged or jumped on the outside can easily be done on the inside.  

Not surprising. Typical response of any big company. I see the parent company of Klipsch is actually listed on the Nasdaq. And if you touch anything no more warranty. 

Sometimes it is nice to deal with smaller boutique companies. I called up Kubala Sosna a couple of weeks ago and the guy answering the phone was Joe Kubala. Nice to get information from the source. I was actually asking about jumpers coincidentally! 

Today's the day  I'll prove Klipsch's "engineers" wrong. I'm going to open the terminal compartment, disconnect the LF wires from the LF terminal and connect it to the HF/MF terminal. By doing this there is absolutely no need for their metal bridges or expensive jumpers that don't do anything at all other than alter the sound which has been for the worse in my case. SinceI'm not bi-amping,  a second set of terminals is pointless.

Totally agree, makes sense to me. As a long time Magneplanar owner I am well aware of doing speaker modifications to get the most out of what the manufacturer provided us. In some cases Magneplanar even encouraged their owners to experiment with their product, and ended up copying many owners upgrades and the X upgrade was born. Hopefully you don't need to do any soldering and can just flip some o washers from one set to the other. Actually, while you are in there maybe you should rewire them with that Ansuz stuff.