holbo MK 2 turntable

@reynolds537 

I think I must be a bit of a risk-taker, but I do as much homework as I can before taking the plunge.

The basic equation is: you can pay twice as much at a dealer, or risk half that much with a direct purchase.  The way I see the US dollar going (down, down) you would not be losing much if you hated it and wanted to sell it later!

Holbo is much better established in Australia than in the US and the review that convinced me was Holbo Mk II Airbearing Turntable Review | StereoNET International.

Believe me, with the Holbo you are mainly hearing whatever cartridge and phono stage you choose!

Out of the sturdy, double cardboard carton, you lift an almost fully assembled unit.  Only the drive belt and the arm balance weight have to be added.  Beneath is the single box power supply and air pump.  

Now a test on whether you need help setting it up or not.  Have you ever successfully followed IKEA instructions?  Holbo’s are better, very simple with good diagrams.  The hardest bit is bolting on the cartridge of your choice, especially if it has separate nuts and washers!  But even that becomes easy when you realise the tonearm can be rotated 90-degrees sideways, so gravity holds the cartridge and bolts in place leaving your two hands free to tweezer the washers and nuts into place.

You have to tweezer the four connectors onto your cartridge.  Again, the ability to rotate make that easier than usual.

There are other tips I can give you for levelling, although the three feet make this straightforward.  Just pick one foot, and align a spirit level to the reference foot. Do the same with the last foot and you are done.

It is actually far easier than the pivoted systems I have seen.  Apart from anything else, you don’t have an anti-skate system to worry about.

You will need a stylus gauge to set the tracking weight.  I like the digital ones and got a cheap one on Temu - they probably all come from the same factory.  Also useful is a marked-up perspex block for adjusting the azimuth and VTA.

It might not be obvious, but final adjustments must be done where the table will sit!

As Aussies say, "She’ll be right"

Holbo mk2 vs CS Port = 5500usd vs. 65000usd. I'm very interested in which tonearm has the ability to change VTA while playing and precise azimuth settings.

Neither of these turntables has the ability to adjust VTA without the stylus moving off tangent.

If you adjust VTA on your Holbo whilst playing, the stylus position will move away from the tangent. This is basic geometry.

The Eminent Technology tonearm is far superior - it uses an arc block holding the air bearing, so that when you adjust VTA the stylus remains on the tangent point.

I believe the ET is the only air bearing tangential tracking arm that provides true VTA adjustment whilst keeping the stylus at the tangent point.

Why move the VTA? Because of the different thicknesses of LP records and this is very noticeable in the sound. If you move the VTA for the difference in LP thickness, the tangent will remain the same.
Sorry, the explanation about the VTA on the Eminent Technology tonearm is not clear to me?

@hb22 

If you move the VTA for the difference in LP thickness, the tangent will remain the same

That is true, but if you are adjusting VTA either during initial set up or because of cutter head angle differences between recordings then the stylus will move off tangent.

I'm sure you must be aware that the cutting angles set on the lathes used to cut records varied wildly.

With regards to the Eminent Technology the arm tube is fixed to the spindle, and the spindle runs through a "fixed" air bearing. To adjust VTA the whole air bearing assembly can be raised and lowered. When ET the bearing is raised or lowered it moves in an arc formed by the whole bearing rotating about the stylus point, ensuring that tangent remains constant irrespective of how you set the VTA.

So with your Holbo arm when you raise and lower the bearing it goes straight up and down vertically. With the Eminent Technology arm the bearing moves in an arc so the stylus always remains at the tangent, even if you change VTA on the same record.

Notwithstanding that, you might want to have a think about whether you should set up the stylus slightly forward of tangent - say 0.5mm. Why ? 

Well think of king pins and preloading on a car, no preload and your steering wobbles its way along the road. By putting a very small load on the stylus ( using very small overhang ) you may stabilise the stylus in the groove.

I would be interested in your thoughts on this.