lewm,
I’m going on about it because it is important for people to know: proper alignment/calibration is tricky; re-tippers ’one side worn’ evidence reveals MOST are not getting/keeping it ALL fundamentally correct. OK, now what?
Solution: get the few inexpensive tools I listed above, practice the simple methods until you can do it yourself, get it ALL right. Not perfectionism, but fundamentally correct! Re-check frequently!
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OP’s TT: you may be right, maybe it’s just a sign that it’s time to clean and adjust the bearings!
Not a job for everyone, another argument for streaming, or sticking with elliptical rather than advanced stylus shapes which require more careful alignment.
My opinion is that the benefits of better cantilever materials and advantages of lighter tracking, and superior imaging from advanced stylus shapes make it imperative to gather the tools and acquire the skills to get superior results.
Solution fits the diagnosis, however It may not be a single, rather a combo of slight mis-alignments, if Azimuth is off this way, what? off that way what" combined with improper null points alignment?
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I once found a friend’s TT where the platter was not perfectly level with the arm board. He leveled the TT using only the platter, thus the arm post/armwand was slightly out of level. Turned out the TT Drive fasteners were only hand tightened in the deck, the owner forgot to tighten them, which I did and they became level to each other.
I once found a platter that was not properly seated on the spindle, just lifting it off and putting it back on solved it.
Levels: check the arm board, check the deck/plinth, check the platter, make sure they are level to each other.
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how much friction in the bearings? maybe not this case, but how anyone could not use a dust cover over a beautifully made and assembled tonearm with precision bearings leaves me shaking my head, there should be laws against it!
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mine, mini-din connector or soldered, the wire insulation VAS used is too stiff, and like OP, the ’pushback’ is not precisely controlled. VPI used similar wire that caused 'pushback', too stiff IMO.
I’m was thinking about having VAS put a short section of light/flexible Litz between the connector and the base plate exit hole to eliminate or minimize the ’pushback’, but
I like my JVC Victor 7082 with removable headshell and it’s on the fly VTA and Anti-Skate adjustments, it’s my favorite arm, I highly recommend it, and it is a bargain as it most often has an easily fixed age related problem:
https://www.audiogon.com/systems/12014https://www.audiogon.com/systems/12014
Did you repair yours?