What is the science behind audiophile fuses?


There were many threads on the topic of "audiophile fuses" on this forum, and I sure don't want to open old wounds and trench warfare. The fuse on my preamp blew suddenly two days ago, which prompted me to search for a replacement. That's when I came across the term "audiophile fuse" and the fact that they demand far-out prices. Deeper curiosity brought me to several other fora, where users posted glowing praises about their Zero fuses and other exotica. Now I am a scientist, but not a physicist or electrical engineer: so please enlighten me! How can a fuse have an audible influence on the signal, when the signal does not even pass through it? How can a fuse be "directional" when it deals with alternate current? I mean, if I recall my university physics, a fuse is basically a safety valve and nothing more. Am I completely missing an important point here? My scientific field is drug discovery, and because of this background I am thoroughly familiar with the power and reality of the placebo effect. I that's what I am seeing here, or is it real physics? I need objective facts and not opinions, please. I really appreciate your help!

 
reimarc

I hear you on trying to figure out what works. I am wiring them to the hot wire of the incoming 20A line with the two separate load side wires going one to each half of a duplex, that I will separate by cutting the tab between the two hot sides. The neutral and ground should be fine as-is since this is basically the same as wiring a switch.

If I decide to do something for the remainder of my gear, I will likely try the SDFB, and especially if I end up going the Grimm MU2 route since that will take the place of three different components for me and only require one SDFB. However, I am struggling to get around Grimm’s omission of a remote volume control and the inability of at least one reviewer to read the numerical volume level from their listening chair. I am far from lazy but not making it easy to change volume and read it while seated seems a huge oversight on an $18K component that is expected to serve as a preamp, unless there is an easy app intended for that purpose. I need to dig deeper.

@mitch2 

I think the Grimm has an IR sensor so one could use a programmable remote. Alternatively you could control volume via roon if you use that.

@devinplombier - Thanks.  I believe the Grimm MU2 offers a jack for an IR sensor but not the actual sensor.  It just seems like a clunky solution for an $18K piece of electronics, in this era.  I will have to check out the Roon app volume control as I have never used it.  Still wish there was a regular remote control.  I wouldn't need one if it were just a streamer/DAC but since there is a preamp, it seems like a stupid omission.

@mitch2 Actually the Grimm MU2 does come supplied with an IR sensor.  You might be interested in downloading the software and hardware manual from Grimm's web site under the "downloads" tab which gives detailed explanations for volume control via Roon.  I also agree that Grimm should have provided a remote control, but I believe their intent was to operate from a phone or tablet via Roon.  I use both a tablet and a remote.  The software manual has instructions on how to program a compatible remote and the functions that can be programmed.  I went with a programmable remote provided by LTA (Linear Tube Audio) that they provide with their preamp for $50 which can be seen at LTA's web site in their upgrades category.  I've also programmed an old TV remote that I wasn't using but prefer the simplicity of the LTA.

@carlsbad2 - I finally finished installing the two magnetic breakers/switches that SMc Audio sent me to replace the fuses in my SMc amplifiers.  Each switch powers one of the two outlets on the duplex that the monoblocks are plugged into.  See pics right after the first picture on my system page.

Had I known how much work that was going to be, I might have simply purchased two SDFBs.  My 1/4-inch copper rod arrived yesterday so just in time to make two slugs to replace the fancy SR fuses that SMc Audio had in those amps - 2@ T10A.  I am giving it a run in right now and it sounds pretty good, but it did before too.  Certainly didn't make anything sound worse.