Woodworkers ?

J K I do see your concern but my concern with a very fine grit paper like 600 or higher is that it may bring out more sheen than the original finish and thus show up more. These grits are primarily for sheen, polishing and removing irregularities between finish coats. I do however agree that 220 may indeed be too course. If the scratch is deep it should be fine so long as due care is given. If the scratch is very slight I would go with a 320 or maybe 400 and GO LIGHTLY. This way there is less risk of matching up the sheen with the original finish. Refinishing is a learned process. Touching up a scratch without any noticable effects is a very skilled learned process. It is best to experiment on an area of the cabinet that isn't noticable, if any, especially if there is any doubt.

Thanks guys, but right now I'll try all non-sanding technigues first, I really don't trust my, ahem, skills - tearing down a wall maybe, but the delicate stuff I'll leave to others. BTW did someone mention "english leather" up there? You pulling my (AC) cord? Any other suggestions? Thanks again.

I'm serious about the English leather. I learned it from a Piano Mechanic. He used it to hide a small scratch on an almost unnocitable part of my piano. He noticed it--now I don't think anyone would notice it, even if you pointed it out to them.

Agreed that scratch repair on finished wood is a learned process with many technique approaches based on the wood, the finishing process, the quality of the original finish, etc. For me, if abrasives are out. If abrasives are used then the whole speaker cabinet should be refinished for perfect results (sheen matches) -- which exposes whole issue of finishing product compatibility with the original finish on the cabinet, removing drivers, dust free workshop, application techniques....

I think Abstract7 means Old English products, which come in several color choices.... They work well to hide the appearance of a scratch, but will not be perfect like a professional scratch removal would be - but a heck of a lot less expensive.

Personally, with the furniture I build, sandpaper never touches the piece -- IMO sandpaper is an evil workaround to proper woodworking craftsmanship. I use finish scraper planes and steel wool for the finish (not applicable for venier, such as most speakers are finished). There is no way that sand can sever the grain of wood like a plane knife can shave it... Off the subject, but my $0.02.

My recommendation still stands -- appropriately colored filler sticks / products or Old English colored oils. Other stain products may accomplish the same effect. Maybe an Woodcrafters or Rockler store can recommend other products and techniques. They forsure have books on the subject...

OK -- Thanks Abstract7 for the English Leather update -- I'll have to try this one...