What CD player will warm my Thiel/Classe systm?

Thanks for the room description. Incredible, ain't it, that at three different shops no one asked about this. Along with a speaker's intrinsic response, the speaker/room interaction is really the most sonically determinative aspect of the entire system (any system).

The window treatment is a good idea, and it could allow you to aim the speakers a little more straight ahead, which would also reduce the perceived treble, though perhaps at the cost of some imaging precision. It might help to do something to damp or break up the reflection from the wall behind your chair as well. Unfortunately though, in addition to reflecting treble, windows leak bass, which the blinds won't affect (the fireplace might do so as well). It's probably good that you're set up firing across the short dimension of the room, which I was going to suggest if you weren't. I hope the area rug lies between you and the speakers. Having a wide placement separation between Thiels is not uncommon. Your listening distance is about the max recommended, but that's appropriate to your room size. Having the speakers 3 ft. away from the front wall is pretty standard, though moving them a little closer to the wall could increase the perceived lower frequency balance a bit.

But basically it sounds like you're working with what you've got, and the necessary evil (just kidding) of getting a sub is the next step, unless you were to change speakers (and even then you might still want a sub in this situation). It's no mystery to me that you preferred the sound of the Thiels in the store. The 1.6's aren't very demanding of power, though your room is, but I'm sure they appreciated the upgrade in amplification quality. You might try getting the outrigger stands if you don't already have them, as they could help slightly with the bass by increasing the footprint stability of the cabinets and hence LF wavelaunch. Best of luck with blending in a subwoofer and soliciting more advice on a new thread (lots of folks around here know more about subs than me :-), and let us know what happens, and when you get that CDP too.

I totally missed this: "My room is about 20 x 30 with a high ceiling."

When I first started getting into "high end" audio, about 10 years ago (after years of owning a NAD/JBL "mid-fi", to be generous, system), I bought drastically better speakers, slightly used B&W M802SIII's. I then spent a few years (in retrospect, needless) frustration as I was so clueless about how much power they needed, among other things. Many visits to various "high end" audio salons in the metro-Boston area were almost less-than-useless in figuring out what other components I needed.

I still think you should consider upgrading the CDP--I can't imagine a 10 y.o. Onkyo is doing justice to the Theils & Classe amp. Seriously, I think a Meridian 506 for $600 perhaps (?), or a new Jolida would improve your system a lot for low$$. If the front end is mediocre it almost doesn't matter what else you do IMO.

The good news: a used sub & excellent used CDP might run you $2K roughly for both.....

On 8/22 I wrote of the 1.6, "It's appropriate for smaller rooms, and listeners willing to live without the bottom 2.5 octaves being reproduced in full". That should have read bottom 1.5 octaves, the speaker is supposed to hold up in the bass until around 60Hz before roll-off.

Ruhl,

I just wanted to add to what Zaikesman so accurately posted above. Adding a subwoofer to my system was one of the best/cost effective moves I could have made. With some caveats: They are almost impossible to audition anywhere except at home. The first dealer I went to was nice enough. He had 5 subs in my price range all lined up for my private audition and didn't bat an eye as I put them thru the tryout at very high volume. But he just did not seem to get what I was looking for and kept steering me toward the Velodyne that HE liked and/or owned. I went home and called Velodyne and explained my wants and needs to one of their technicians who was extremely indignant about the "advise" that their salesman gave me. He recommended a model in my price range and another dealer somewhat nearby. That dealer recommended the same model as the technician out of 18 or so models (what were the odds of that?) so I bought it. I did get a 30 day return guarantee. It did take about a month of moving it around and adjusting the controls to get it to lock in, but once it did, it improved EVERYTHING. My point is to consider calling the manufacture(s) of the subs you may be considering and tell them what YOU want to hear. In my case they were very knowledgeable and helpful. Finally, don't be afraid of sub-setup procedures. It's not work, it's actually fun! And well worth the effort. And when you get it right - and you will - you'll see what I'm talking about. Best of luck, Matt......

Just an update. I did buy a sub, the REL B-3. It is remarkable. The sound stage is much deeper and articulated. The bass is wonderful. I had little problem integrating, setting the cross over at about 50. For some CDs the sub volume needs to be turned up a bit, but it has made the 1.6s perfect for my room and my system. I would highly recommend this combination. Down the road I will add a better CDP, but right now I am a happy camper. Thanks for all the input.