Yet Another Post About Power Conditioners!


OK, OK, so I know there are eleventy billion posts about what power conditioners are better than others. I've read them all...yes, all eleventy billion! But, I am still wondering which one I should chose.

Here's the backdrop: I have four dedicated, 20-amp outlets. There's a bunch of noise on them. So bad I can hear a local hip hop station clearly playing through my Greenwave Dirty Noise Filter w/speaker. I use an assortment of very high-end, and expensive power cables,. I use very expensive, high-end outlets. My system consists of a Mobile Fidelity Ultradeck, a PS Audio GCHP phone stage, an AudioLab 6000CDT transport, a Burson Audio 3x Reference headphone amp, and Focal Clear headphones. Everything is connected with really good interconnects, most of which are balanced. Having downsized from a much larger, much more power system, these nuggets suit my current needs just fine.

Still that AC noise. Given the size of my system, it's silly to spend mega-bucks on a regenerator, or the expensive balanced isolation transformer PCs. Based on my research, I've narrowed my choices to these in the $1500 and under price range:

Furman Elite 15 or 20 PFi (used)
AudioQuest Niagara 1200
PS Audio Dectect
Core Power Equi=Core 1000 or 1800 (no return policy, ugh)
Shunyata Hydra 8 (used)
Decware ZLC (10-12 month wait, ugh)
NuPrime Pure AC-4
Toroid BTE500E or 1000E Balanced Transformer
Tripplite ISO500 or 500HG Isolation Transformer
Torus TOT Mini Balanced Transformer

Yes, that's an extensive list, but my search reveals these are the top choices by many folks, as well as a few, little-known contenders.

If you have actual experience with any of these--and have compared them to other PCs, your opinion or recommendations would be appreciated greatly. You're welcome to suggest others, too, if you've done hands-on comparisons.


output555
@output555

It doesn’t matter if the breaker is on or off. By the way the T slot on the 20 amp outlet is the neutral contact.

IF the electrician only connected the ground rod to the outlet equipment ground terminal you will be measuring for a difference of potential, voltage, from the dedicated ground rod to the grounding system, (Grounding Electrode System), of the electrical service of the house.

The electrical service main neutral conductor is connected to earth by what is called a Grounding Electrode Conductor that is connected to all earthed Grounding Electrodes.

Audio dedicated ground rod >> to equipment ground contact/terminal on wall outlet >> volt meter >> neutral contact/branch circuit neutral conductor >> to neutral bar in main electrical panel >> Grounding Electrode Conductor >> to earthed Grounding Electrode(s)

FWIW there are multitudes of multiple stray voltages potentials in the earth. The common electrical source is the Utility Power Company.

I did not say to check for continuity from the equipment ground contact to the neutral contact because you don’t know for sure what the electrician did 25 years ago.
IF the dedicated rod is only connected to the ground terminal on the outlet, therein not also connected to the branch circuit wiring equipment grounding conductor, a difference of potential, voltage, between the two contacts could possibly damage the meter if it was set to ohms to check for continuity.
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@output555 
Try an ADD-Powr Sorcer or Wizard. Inquire with addpowr for a "B" stock unit. I use it with a dedicated ground. Amazing results,
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