Will the manufacturer gladly replace the 50 cent fuse sold for $hundred$Not if they're smart, they won't. They should have an official policy of not recommending anything other than the manufacturer's rated part, which is always clearly marked on the device. Even if I was selling 50 cent fuses for 75 cents, I'd have literature clearly stating that using the wrong value voids any warranty. Maybe I'd send you a coupon, two fuses for only $1.65, and better looking, I mean, better luck next time, kid.
So done with audiophile fuses
The journey started with a medium priced ($50) fuse in my power supply. A failed rectifier tube blew that one out. Not a fuse problem. Next up was a blue fuse in my pre amp. It blew and was not caused by a pre amp problem. Apparently they sometimes are more sensitive and it was replaced by an orange fuse two values higher. Things were going along fine. I replaced the pre amp with a newer version of the pre amp and it has the same fuse value. Five months latter (today) I turn on the pre amp and nothing. it's a five month old pre amp so I suspected that it was the fuse. Sure enough, I replaced it with a ceramic Littelfuse of the lower correct value it works fine. No more wasting my money on unstable fuses for me.
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molingus14 posts05-18-2021 12:33amWill the manufacturer gladly replace the 50 cent fuse sold for $hundred$Not if they’re smart, they won’t. They should have an official policy of not recommending anything other than the manufacturer’s rated part, which is always clearly marked on the device. Even if I was selling 50 cent fuses for 75 cents, I’d have literature clearly stating that using the wrong value voids any warranty. Maybe I’d send you a coupon, two fuses for only $1.65, and better looking, I mean, better luck next time, kid. I agree. The problem arises when the seller/"manufacturer"(actually repackaged in a fancy box with graphics) recommends going up in value to "get an improved performance/sound". Not a big deal...right? HA! |
Okay, here's some constructive criticism, based on the assumption that, in order to sound remotely palatable, audiophile grade amps need AC mains to supply perfect platonic ideal archetypical sine waves, like god's flatulence. Of course, they don't, and neither do the designs engineers learn in their first year of school, but still, let's assume. So you've spent all that money on power cords, and line conditioners, and power supplies, and magic orange wall outlets, and you've paid your neighbors to not use their air conditioner just long enough so you can finally, for once, enjoy the overture to Reinze like they could when it was written 150 years ago. Every last drop of that perfect current has to travel across the impure little filament of the fuse before it can be DC rectified by your device. You do know that your amp doesn't even want your alternating sine wave, right? It's got a built-in plan to convert that swill to DC, first and foremost, right? But I digress. What are you going to do? After all that, a fuse made of any less than 17.6% pure unobtanium will ruin all your plans, waste all that money, and you'll probably die alone. Start to demand filtered power supplies with the fuse *before* the filter. That way, it shouldn't matter if you used braided silver, or ordinary nickel, or one of those turds someone, for some reason, seems to be advocating. |
...not to mention the fancy time-aligned cable that is terminated with a substandard conductive Rhodium plated solid brass...also an inferior conductor...clamped on to another solid connector into a passive crossover through a network of capacitors, inductors, resistors, that might soldered...or spade lug... to a solid connector on each transducer, soldered to various degrees of copper, copper clad aluminum, or aluminum voice coil windings. Talk about electron confusion. How on earth do they know what frequency they are a part of, when Ohm’s Law states that electricity follows the path of least resistance? Reddy Kilowatt is one smart dude. |
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