Victor UA-7082 Arm, Rubber Washer at Rear Counterweight Tube: Sag/Repair/Fitting Damage.


Victor UA-7082 Arm, Rubber Washer at Rear Counterweight Tube: Sag/Repair/Fitting Damage.
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The Large Plinth with UA-7082 I bought arrived, the plinth, legs, dust cover seriously damaged. Insured, at UPS for damage claim now.

The arm, before I bought it, the counter weight tube was sagging (very typical it seems), because the rubber washer between the main tube and the rear counterweight tube had deteriorated (the typical age related problem).

I pointed it out to seller, he fixed it, posted new photos, I bought it.

The arm arrived undamaged, however, it was going back, and, perhaps I will buy one in the future with bad rubber, soooo, I decided to see how he fixed it.

I’m no engineer, this is my attempt to clarify the rubber repair for myself and others. Lot of words to attempt clarity, it’s not that complicated.

1. the 7082 (presumably 7045) rear tube and counterweight are not totally isolated from the arm by a tubular layer of rubber like my SME 3009 was. (I repaired 3009 with factory rubber tube from SME when I first got it).

2. The 7082 rear tube is threaded, It threads into the back of a fitting on the end of the main arm, just behind the pivot. Not tight machine threads, so minor movement can occur. That is a semi-solid, not totally isolated connection. If the rubber washer is weak, these loose threads allow sag to occur. Perhaps the threaded shaft gets bent down also.

3. You thread/snug that rear tube forward against the rubber washer. The thickness of the washer is therefore not critical (except too thin). The density of the rubber needs to be firm enough to keep the rear tube from sagging, but not too hard, so it can do it’s job: dampening vibrations traveling down/back up the tube, isolating counterweight .... engineers can clarify this design function.

4. Washer Shape. Factory ____? This one: It did not slip off the front tube as I expected a simple washer would. It had an integral smaller diameter ’shoulder’ or ’neck’ that projected forward into the rear tube fitting. There are two tiny allen-head set screws at the bottom of the fitting. I loosened them and a short piece of tube came out, less than an inch long, rubber washer at the rear end.

5. Front face of the small fitting with the washer has/had a brass faced plate, curved. This one was damaged, part missing, part ’mangled’. My guess, it was set too tightly to the face of the arm shaft, someone messed with it, who knows ....

6. The point is, unless I took it apart, it looked fixed, you would definitely choose this over one with deteriorated rubber, sagging rear tube. But it had invisible damage. No way to know if buying used. Or know after you received it. I think this is probably a very rare instance, just mentioning it, perhaps someone knows something about it _____ ?

7. Effect performance??? Many have said they have weak rubber washers/sagging rear tubes: so what, plays great. The fitting: internal damaged brass face could be carefully reassembled, making sure no contact with anything.

8. Anti-Skate. I don’t like it, especially used. The plastic cap lifted off to reveal a spring coiled around the shaft (cap’s tiny set screws too loose?). Turning the top dial compresses the spring, step-less progressive resistance to the rotation of the arm shaft, great  ... Counter-acts inward force when playing.

Perhaps I would be confident with new from factory, but, there is no way I would be confident with this one, or any used one. Where is zero? Prior in-appropriate revolutions? Weakened spring?

I like dangling string counterweight with many small 1/4 gram notches like the SME and others. One thing I did not like about my 3009 Anti-Skate was the age and brittleness of the plastic line, but it always tested accurate in use.

9. Actual anti-skate. Listening, test record, final set of anti-skate is best. But, when changing cartridges, Stereo to Mono, Shibata to Elliptical: quickly adding or reducing tracking force, then a quick anti-skate corresponding change ..... no listening test, trust the incremental changes from prior proven setting. I feel more confident moving the string to the next notch than adjusting a spring.

Hope this is helpful, perhaps others can clarify anything I got wrong.

Elliott


elliottbnewcombjr
Not to be critical, however, to clarify for others, in the photo, the center piece is show reversed.

I think I understand what you intend to say and I am aware that the pin is reversed but the Victor that I repaired is an extremely simplified model of the UA 5045 and does not allow to repair it (unlike the UA 5045 or UA 7045/7082) without disassembling it completely piece by piece, because the screw that securely fixes the pin in this product is screwed "before" to fit the barrel inside the articolation castle.
This forced me to use a little metric pitch nut to tighten the counterweight support to be tightened with a tiny thin key and passing through the narrow passage indicated in the photo by the white arrow.

On the other hand, I would have been forced to completely disassemble the arm, including the bearings and not having a torque wrench to tighten the bearing pins when reassembling, I didn't want to completely disassemble it.
I just wanted others viewing that photo to realize, for any of these, the threads face the rear, and the counterweight screws onto it.
You can do this. Words, words, words, it’s not that hard, or precise.

prior link to good photos

https://www.audiovintage.fr/leforum/viewtopic.php?t=55306

You take it apart, remove the old rubber, install the new stepped rubber gasket (dimensions below), reassemble, no critical adjustments.

The hardest part is having/acquiring the tiny allen wrench to fit the 3 allen head set screws. That’s the only tool needed.

1. Disassembly:

A. Remove the rear counterweight shaft/assembly.

a1. loosen set screw on the counterweight shaft (probably on the bottom).

a2. unscrew the entire counterweight assembly. (counter clockwise from rear). It has internal threads, it simply spins off. Fear not, keep turning.

****Visible Now: old rubber on brass piece inside short chrome piece****

B. Remove the short chrome tube extending out of the rear of the pivot

b1. loosen two tiny allen-head set screws on the bottom of the pivot.

b2. pull short chrome piece out. (brass piece probably held in place by old rubber)

C. Remove all old rubber, pushing brass piece out of the short chrome piece.

***Notice: front of brass piece has tabs. front of short chrome tube has notches.***

Tabs in notches keeps the brass piece from spinning during re-assembly.

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2. Size of ’Stepped’ Rubber Gasket!

You need to take rear of arm apart to fix it, so take the short chrome piece and brass piece with you when going to the plumbing store/dept.

Described horizontally, facing cartridge.

2a. Front portion that becomes invisible when pushed onto the brass piece and inside the short chrome tube: 9mm outside diameter x 4mm long. (mine started out longer than 4mm and was cut by hand to 4mm long) (doesn’t have to be perfect length or perfect cut).

2b. Rear portion that remains visible, (ends up looking like a simple washer): 13mm outside diameter x 4mm long. (it could be a bit larger diameter but would visually exceed the counterweight tube’s diameter). (it could be only 3mm long. (Not more than 4mm long, you don’t want this portion of rubber to allow too much sag when re-assembled.

2c. inside diameter of gasket: sadly I forgot to measure it. it slides onto the brass piece. anyone know the diameter of the brass piece ___________ ? Take the brass piece with you.

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3. Re-Assembly

3a. insert brass piece into the short chrome tube.

3b. locate brass tabs in the tube’s notches

3c. push rubber gasket onto the brass piece inside the short chrome piece

You want the brass tabs to stay firmly in the notches before proceeding.

3d. Insert short chrome tube into the hole in the rear of the pivot.

***How far into the pivot?***

Far enough for the set screws to lock it in place, not too far to contact/interfere with arm/pivot movement.

3e. Tighten the two set screws. lightly snug, check full pivot motion, tighten firmly.

3f. Spin the counterweight assembly onto the brass threaded shaft.

*** Pull rearward while spinning on. Do not push the brass piece forward when doing this, you want the internal brass tabs to remain in the chrome tube’s notches so the brass piece cannot spin.

3g. Firmly snug the counterweight shaft to the rear face of the rubber gasket.

*** Now the counterweight has pulled everything together, has tightened the brass tabs into the notches, is holding itself firmly against the gasket***

3h. tighten the set screw preventing counterweight shaft movement.

Done.







Hey Elliot, Best groove and all, Late to the party but just bought an used ua-5045 from Japan to avoid now crazily high cost of ua-7082, sme 3010R, MA-505 etc. and while not received to know how bad the sag is, if it sags at all, these detailed, nicely and generously shared information are very much appreciated .. thanks a million !

Will endeavour to measure the diameter of brass insert for the right rubber grommet in return if I indeed need to proceed on the repair.

Cheers. Richard

OMG, 4 years ago, I had long forgotten this, thanks for the revival and best of luck with your tonearm.

I was so glad I was curious and took that arm apart, the critical finding was the damaged brass piece, and measuring the size of the needed rubber washer

A little sag, I wouldn't mess with it, until the sag increases (perhaps never).

IF you go inside, the length and diameter of the brass piece would be a fine addition to the arm's facts.