Nottingham resonance control


I am trying to figure out how to do away with those rubber feet, both under the table and the motor. Or at least to greatly improve the table-platform interface.
Currently, my Spacedeck sits on a 3" maple block which is right on the hardwood floor with Boston Audio tuneblocks under it. No Nottingham platform. My speakers are on Boston Audio tuneblocks for speakers. I have very little floor vibration even at high volume level.
I was thinking about Walker resonance control discs or Steelpoints. Steelpoints are very expensive, Walker discs are $50 each. I would need six - three for the table and three for the motor.
What are your thoughts and experience?
Oh, yes, I am also using Boston Audio Mat-1.
inna
'depends on what you are trying to do' is an excellent point. I advocate the approach of tuning the system and controlling the resonant energy not eliminating it altogether. Hard to accomplish and requires a lot of experimenting, including trying different woods. I would start with woods used for making instruments, ironwood is not one of them. Brazilian rosewood, spruce, cocobolo etc. In the end it might come down to personal preference, and that's good. For example, I like the sound that is deep and a little on the loose side but not much.
Actually, to be honest, the reason I mentioned ironwood or iron wood, whatever, is to suggest what I think is true, that many audiophiles believe that it's the density of the wood somehow that's responsible for the benefits to the sound. But that's actually not the case, by inspection, since it's actually relatively less dense woods that are used in the making of musical instruments AND in audio systems, woods like ebony, rosewood, spruce, maple and birch.
"Shakeydeal, what did you find in Well Tempered that Spacedeck couldn't do ?"

Sorry, but I just saw this.

To be honest, as much as I loved the Spacedeck (owned two of them), the Amadeus just made it sound broken. No other way to describe it.

Shakey
I wonder, if it would make the deck sound better, at least to me, if I put it on Brazilian rosewood block instead of maple. Ebony doesn't seem very appealing. Indian or Honduran rosewood might work too. Brazilian rosewood block of high quality would be difficult and expensive to get.
Ironwood is very 'stupid' wood, makes nice knife handles but even for that that's not what I prefer. African blackwood, which is not ebony, I have no idea of.
I think, Tom Fletcher should've experimented with plinths made of different woods. Maybe he did, but that's not what materialized.
All of the woods you mention at least on terms of sonic results pale in comparison to real isolation techniques, and what I'm referring to here is mass on spring isoaltion. Of course, if you've made your mind up with respect to exotic woods you can have your cake and eat it too. You know by employing exotic hardwoods between the component and the uh springs.