Here's How I Make My Equipment Racks


In response to a previous thread, here's how I make my
equipment racks:
List of equipment: 3/4" thick MDF cut to desired shelf
size
(4) 3/4" diameter 6' threaded steel rods
3/4" nuts and washers (8 per shelf)
Drill a 3/4" hole in the corner of each shelf in exactly the
same place. I do this by scribing a line with a square 1 1/2" inch in and using a nail set to punch a hole where the lines intersect. A drill press works great to drill the holes so they are all straight and true. Now that you have
a hole drilled in each corner of each shelf, simply screw
the whole thing together, adjusting each shelf to fit your
gear. Use a square to make sure your first shelf is straight, and measure each one likewise. If you do this
correctly, your rack will sit straight and level. If you
need to level it further, buy (4) 3/4 rod connectors, which
are about 3" high, and screw these into the bottom of the
rod and use them to level it. I paint the steel rod using
Krylon Industrial enamel (flat black looks best), and paint
the shelves to match your decor. This makes a very solid,
heavy audio rack. Total cost is about $40 for the steel
rod, $15 for the nuts and washers (about $1.00 a pound)
$20 for the MDF, and $5.00 worth of paint for a total under
$100. I've made several racks this way and have used the
same method to make CD racks.
Dave
Ag insider logo xs@2xdave43
Hi Ohlala,
My original response was not meant to dismiss Dave43's commendable, informative and well-meaning posting.He properly referred to the plans as "equipment racks" rather than isolation stands and I had hoped that my original response, while pointed, was not derogatory nor mean- spirited.
My reply is a reaction to the cummulative damage that the TNT Flexy seems to have made on the internet hobbyist audio forums as a whole.
I read pretty regularly and have encountered many more than a few audiophiles who misstakenly assume that Flexy type threaded rod bolt-togethers(ESPECIALLY those reprehensible commercially marketed racks)offer a viable sonic benefit to their systems.Perhaps that might be so but only by comparison to the likes of Gusdorf and O'Sullivan "stereo cabinets".
In not one case that I have yet encountered has the individual ever actually made direct comparison against a properly engineered isolation support yet the Flexy design is perpetuated as a viable inexpensive DIY alternative for same(please note that the original poster made no such claims).
It was the intent of my original reply to advance the question of the posters performance experience with his Flexy variant.
I fully understand and wholly commend the intent of posting a solution for system display management at low expense.
Had these designs been touted only as a furniture piece/ equipment storage solution rather than as an isolation product,I would have no reason to enter my foil.
I regularly see available at AG and other classified boards pre-owned isolation products in the neighborhood of $175 to $250.
In fact,one can easily assemble a very good performing alternative with a few simple mods and stacking of IKEA Lack endtables for about the same amount as was spent on the Flexy variant(~$20/shelf).
I personally see the $100 spent on the DIY/Flexy project as money essentially squandered.I have no problem with DIY and really no problem with the Flexy as long as the individual knows what they should expect from it.
Best,
Ken
GreaterRanges/Neuance
Well, Mr. Ken...

Would you contribute to the audio world by designing a better yet practical DIY audio rack and submitting it to the good Italian audiophiles at www.tnt-audio.com ? I'm pretty sure they wouldn't have an ego problem about that. They even have the courtesy to translate most of their website's content into English.
Go for it.
IKEA*lyte Modular Component Isolation Support-

IKEA's Lack endtables and coffeetables are constructed of an attractively finished natural wood laminates over an expanded foam and chipboard core.
This composition is of high strength, extremely low energy storing mass and has superb internal damping characteristics.Altho not designed as such,the construction details of IKEA Lack is that of a laminated constrained layer device.Conceptually,when the material is used as an isolation device,it is not far removed from Russ Andrews RATA Torlyte and my own Neuance performance shelving.
Due to the huge volume and modern manufacturing methods IKEA can sell completed endtable units in a variety of colours or natural wood veneers for $15 each ($20 for beech).No finishing is required for the construction of the IKEA*lyte modular isolation stand.
Changes in racking needs can be accomplished by the addition of other IKEA Lack "modules".
IKEA is available worldwide thru retail outlets and by mail order and the internet.
The sonic and musical performance of the IKEA*lyte will better many commercially available supports costing upwards of $500-600 or more, particularly in the areas of PRaT, note shaping and harmonic textures.Depending on the quality of the spiking used and care in installation, the IKEA*lyte will easily better Sanus,Salamander,Atlantis,Lovan,Billy Bags and many other respected and often costly support systems.
Typical cost for a completed 4 shelf IKEA*lyte rack should run approx. US $95-110 ,excluding tools and dependant on finish.

You will need -

(1) IKEA Lack endtable or coffeetable to be used as a Reference Base Platform.(The coffeetable is recommended for unstable flooring and the unused areas make a good location for outboard crossovers and power conditioning devices,powerstrips,etc.)

(1ea.) IKEA Lack endtable for EACH component shelf required.
(ie: a 4 component rack will require a total of 5 IKEA Lack tables, including the base unit)

also needed will be
-a length of 1/4" threaded rod for making spikes
plus matching drill and thread tap
a hacksaw for cutting the threaded rod
and a grinder for sharpening the spikes and to make flats
on each side of the threaded rod/spike for adjusting with
a wrench
-a saw for cutting down the legs for heigth(tablesaw preferred for accuracy)

I.Install 4 spikes to "Base Platform" where the legs would normally be attached and install on the floor,making sure of level and evenness.Do not press the spikes hard into the flooring,just let it settle.If you have heavy carpeting, pre-pierce the carpet with a sharp awl first.

II.Measure and carefully cut down the legs of each shelf module to allow clearance for each component & your favorite footer device.

III.Drill a 1/4"hole, centered, at the bottom of each leg, tap the hole and install the spikes into each leg.

IV.Install the top end of the finished legs to each IKEA shelf module using Carpenters glue.

V.Stack and level each module using the spikes as the adjusting mechanism.Make sure that each module is even,level and does not rock or rattle.

VI.Install your components and let the stand settle-in for a day.Recheck for level and eveness.

VII.Enjoy.

If you have further questions or need clarifications ,I can be contacted by e mail at [email protected] or thru the Neuance website at www.neuanceaudio.com/

Best,
Ken Lyon
GreaterRanges/Neuance
addendum to IKEA8lyte-

I should note that you will have 4 unused legs left over from the base unit that will be handy for a component change or to replace the leg that was accidentally miscut;0)

The spikes should be ground to a relatively shallow
45 degree angle as the IKEA shelving surface is relatively soft.If the spikes penetrate too deeply into the veneer,some isolation will be lost.
Spike protector pads can be fabricated from sample swatches of formica countertop laminate to match the finish and are available for free at most large home hardware outlets.These should be glued down beneath the spikes with carpenters glue or adhered with 3M brand general purpose carpet tape #714NA.
The spike protector pads are handy to protect fine flooring from damage.These should be adhered with the double backed tape for easy removal at a later date.

Additional bracing of the legs for increased rigidity,while not absolutely necessary, will ensure maximum,long lasting performance of the IKEA*lyte structure.

Ken
O.K., guys, take a deep breath! I was just posting these
plans because several 'Gon members e-mailed me asking for
them. I'm not looking for sonic perfection here, I'm just
a guy with a table saw and not $500+ to spend on an
equipment rack. If it makes anybody feel better, I do
use several types of isolation devices under my components.
Thanks for all the responses, pro and con.
Dave