wadia 861 input output disabling

Braro,

your manual does not mention how to switch the amongst Algorithm A, B & C???
It should!
(I did not mean to say that you can change the source code of the algorithm, just to be clear!)

However, if you repeatedly press the button labelled "return" or "enter", one of the choices you will get is the algorithm selection. The factory default is Algorithm A, which is Wadia's patented Digimaster. You can use the >>| or |<< arrows to cycle thru the 3 algorithms.

The GNSC options are good options but they are very expensive options. Definitely explore the isolation techniques - they will yield good results for you. I've got a very similar setup like Talon4's except I use a DIY symposium roller shelf.

Personally, I never liked the BDR cones neither the Mk3 nor the Mk4. I much rather use ceramic cones (not metal for the Wadia. it'll take the sound to the brittle side!) like Golden Sound DH cones. There are other ceramic cones on the market if you don't like DH cones. it was merely 1 suggestion.

Braro, You might try a noise reduction power cord or power conditioner, if you don't have one or the other. Are you plugged directly into the wall? I have a Wadia 861se which has a Shunyata original Black Mamba attached to it. The Black Mamba is plugged into a Shunyata original Hydra. The 861se also is sitting on a set of Symposium rollerblocks which are on top of a Symposium Ultra platform. Isolation and after-market powercords helped the sound quite a bit. I also may go with a GNSC mod in about 6 months or a year. Everyone says that it brings the player to a new level. Best wishes. Stan

Bombaywalla - I have player on BDR cones. I have not experimented with power cords and my manual does not mention the algorithms so I dont know how to change them.

Thanks

Braro,

I agree with Bombaywalla. Before you consider making an investment in GNSC upgrades make sure you first address isolation and power cords/conditioning.

That said, the GNSC Statement mod did greatly improve imaging and just about everything else. The player is now as immediate as the 861 stock, but a lot more clear, transparent, dynamic and natural sounding. My biggest issue wth the stock unit is that it sounded a little bright and sligtly closed in. The unit is pretty clear and open sounding now without any hardness or brightness.

agree w/ Aoliviero - Wadia suggests there might be an improvement if the OUTPUTS (not the inputs) are disabled.
(couldnt do it my case as the bottom hex-head screws were jammed over time & broke the tip of my hex-head allen wrench when I exerted pressure)

re. "slighty fuzzy around the edges" - have you played around w/ the diff algorithms? which algo do you have it set on right now?

from my experience w/ the 861, I found that it responds well to several isolation tweaks such as damping the rack as a whole, isolating the 861 from the rack shelf, damping the chassis even more, using after-mkt cones & after-mkt power cord.
Re. the power cord - don't need to spend mega bucks on one. Get one that is correctly made by a manuf who knows what he's doing. Silver Audio, Virtual Dynamics (his down-mkt models) & Signal Cable come to mind.

after you do all this, see if the sound still remains "slighty fuzzy around the edges". The 861 is not plug-and-play. You will not get the best from it using this way.
FWIW. IMHO.

Thanks - I will try setting the corresponding switches. Aoliviero I see you have had your Wadia modded by GNS. Is the mod a huge improvement? I feel the image (mostly vocals) in my system is slightly fuzzy around the edges. I was thinking maybe the mod would take care of that. What do you think?

I would pose that question to Steve Huntley at GNSC. If I recall, they actually remove them from the circuit or perhaps the whole IO board. As long as anything there is powered you're going to have at least some noise to deal with.

Wadia states that the Digital outputs can be disabled for sligthly better performance. I am not aware of being able to disable the inputs.

To disable the outputs, you must take the top cover off first and the nremove the bottom cover to get to the digital output board. Set dip switches 1, 3, 5 and 7 to the open position. Once you do this you have disabled all of the outputs and it doesn't matter if dip switches 2, 4, 6 and 8 are open or closed.

To set a dip switch to the open position, push an individual dip switch down towards the number on the switch housing. Another way to realize this is to realize that the player comes pre-set with switches 1,3,5 and 7 in the closed position. Therefore, set these switches of a new player to the opposite position.

I haven't done an A/B since I had these disabled previous to purchase.