Need shot? Try your local "Trap & skeet" club (s).
I use what I've got, and not done much experimenting with other amp & preamp combos. I run a pair of BATs... VK500 w/BP, and a VK5i preamp with different tubes than stock. I keep my secondary tweeter down to almost off. 'cept for once in while. My drivers are right at 50" off the rear wall, and right at 30" OC from the side walls... putting them just under eight ft apart. No shot in mine currently, but do have the larger spikes. Two sets of bi wires... Alpha Quad active on just the bass driver, (both sets of leads), and a set of Signature 10 active x2 bi wires doing the mid bass and top modules... it's close to the best sound I've heard coming from Jr's... over 50% for sure... now that I've added all the other cabling...
But the best sound I've ever heard on JR's, was a Thor setup... using the little 30wpc monos, and the TA1000 thor preamp.... and I believe Audience speaker cables... Shanlin Tube SACD... can't say about the IC's... or power cords. Matter of fact that event was the best, most natural sound I've yet heard... though the audition was brief... and followed listeing to a less expensive front end on the VR4 GEN III's. same cd but 220 wpc less, & SS powered. Go figure.
The note about the supporting the floor joists sure is interesting.... my floor is hollow too... w/16" OC joists. I have been told that using another form of base under the plinths is a good idea in that regard..... wood box filled with sand, some sort of stone... I'm thinkning to do both.. build a box and insert some pavers, and fill out the balance with sand.... but firm footing does seem to be indicated with JR's. |
Mfsoa ...yes. All three sets of binding posts have speaker cables attached to them... the Signature 10 bi-wire set is attached to the mid bass, and upper module binding posts... low pass on the mid bass, and high pass on the upper module. the single low bass driver has a set of Alpha Quad bi-wire active x, (not the x2, like the Sig's, but still 'biwires'), and I used a pair of banana adapters with both plug in and pressure fittings to connect both high and low to the pair of posts... itworks best that way vs. just using the low pass pair.
Of course the brass plates connecting the two drivers in the bass module has been removed. No 'data link is or has been used in my system.
Primarily the reason for this is that in this fashion better reproduction of the low end is available, IMO. i SAW THIS HOOK UP AT A DEALER. He used other speaker cables however. I use what I got. Needing 15ft isn't gonna give a person a lot of options unless they are willing to go off for some big money speaker wires. and as they only go down to the mid to low 30's anyhow... these I think are fine... till I can afford another better bass cable option.
also, this hook up is due to the fact the speaker cables I got were one owners previously... and the 'span' of the bi wires was not sufficient to traverse the total distavnce from the lowest binding posts to the top most ones all by their lonesome. You need about a 20 inch spread or better to make that jump... Most bi-wires, are 16 or less... having but two legs of 6 to 8 inches. Sure makes it tough...
But these were built to have bi amped anyhow. so in that instance, one biwire set and one dedicated normal set does the deal....
do remember to remove the brass plates connecting the two lower drivers before doing what I did. You're only overcoming one crossover this way... not both. I seem to get more impact on the lower portion of the scale like I have it... and I did try a couple ways of hooking them up.. and with a few different wires.. nothing spectacular in regard to the type of wires.. just run of the mill cables.
The seamlessness and/or cohesiveness of the lower end registers sound was more the noticed aspect. Wether it's the fashion of the 'hook up' or the same brand, yet different models accounting for it, nonetheless, it's there. there's simply a better blending.
Although preceeding the Sig 10's the Alpha Quad x active were the main cables, and an ole set of Monster biwires were at the spot they maintain now... the Monster 1.4's actually had more 'jump', but the Alpha's join better with the Sig 10's... that's all either way it's an improvment over the brass plates... actually just cutting out some romex vs. the paltes was an improvemnt. Copper is better than brass... and solid wires on the bottom is best too. IMO... for these speakers. "RMV".
oF COURSE, IF YOU HAVE A 20 - 24 INCH SPAN OF BI WIRES OR ORDER SOME THAT WAY... JUST HOOK TO THE BOTTOM POSTS AND UPPER MODULE AS THE MANUAL SAYS.
Hope that answers your quesiton |
mfsod
you may want to have your speakers checked out. the 3 pairs of binding posts are connected to the respective drivers. tops are for all the driveers in that module.... next down are for the mid bass... and bottom most are for the low end driver.... ensure the data lnik is removed. the brass plates are removed. don't connect anything to the speakers at that point, except which ever driver you wish to check out.... if when hooked from the amp to the driver, you get no sound... somethings up.... somewhere.... change to another driver... and so on.... trust me here... what I said does work. If it isn't on yours then you have an issue.... Hope things turn out OK |
Mfsoa
I do appreciate that bit of info... I suppose it depends on who you speak with at VSA... AND maybe when... a dealer showed me, or rather told me the method I wrote about above... I called VXA too a bit thereafter on a setup issue and made mention of it to them... I only wrote what both the dealer and VSA had told me and I will remove the other wires driving the speakers shortly and find out for myself once more... its been a while since I checked it
and I do know using one set of bi wires that span only from the top most pair of posts on the bass module to the upper module will significantly reduce the bottom end response. Thats the first way I hooked them up when I got the first set of Syn biwires
and leaving the plates on
Figuring plates are the connection for both drivers, and the biwires not with great enough span to hook to the very bottom and top most posts
I added the other set of wires I had laying about to the very bottom posts, and used the biwires to do the other two posts
I removed the plates at that point too, so as not to cause any shorts
and was instructed to do so by a dealer
and VSA. Not to mention it just made sense
aa with so many others thats what you do when biwiring
remove the plates.
Five sets of speakers that Ive owned in the past have ALL said to do just that when bi wiring, or bi amping. I didnt see VSA as any different. Still dont actually.
What gets me about this recent info is this, "If there is an internal connection of the two bass module drivers... Why then, is there a brass plate on the outside of the bass module apparently connecting those two drivers?" Especially if they are hooked up on the inside. I would think the brass plates on the outside supurfulus, or at the very lezst redundant. Then there's the question,"Why are they there if not to connect two different drivers?"
AS with so many other speakers... brass plates do in fact connect different sets of drivers.... seems silly to do it internally, and externally as well. Dont you think?
It aint just the book that is confusing
.
Brass or Silver plates on backs of speakers have to me, anyways, always been there as a conductor. removing them removes the path for current, or the signal to flow... and current don't flow backwards... so I'm lost if the connecting plates are either redundant or do not serve to connect the two drivers. Am I making sense?
ONe thing about the JR's... Selfexplannatory or even simple, they ain't. |
Jdodmead
...it would seem so.
As I understand the posting, the plates are there only to hook up to the supplied umbilical... which is still another ten or so inches above the "mystery posts", (must have been a shortage of wire somewhere), and it supplies the upper module. So in the case of biwiring, removing the plates seems to me to be the way to go, as the other half of the bi-wire hooks to the top module.. eliminating the umbilical.
Of course that smacks of an oversight, or flaw in the engineering
like a work around, or afterthought. I mean if both drivers are internally wired together, then why not continue that wiring path within the cabinet up to the connection of the UC output on the bass unit? Safer that way. Cleaner looking too, having less stuff sticking out of the rear of the bass cabinet.
Too bad they didn't simply do away with one set of posts on the bass module, huh? That's the issue entirely, I think... and still one set of standard speaker wires would hook up the JR's along with the umbilical using the then, one set, of posts... and likely not require VR4 - JR (or possibly other VR owners), to have to get special ordered bi-wires for their speakers, as some will make that stretch, but not too many make the stretch from very bottom to very top. Though I was told MIT had pretty long tails on their bi-wires. Itd sure save some money in time & materials too
. Not to mention the time spent answering hook up queries, consequently all would benefit.. or maybe an upgrade or mod?
Hint! Hint!
I'll be dogged! Looks like I got a set of speaker wires for sale... perhaps.. or my HT system is about to get an upgrade in speaker cables
. Or Ill just shotgun them using the two sets of bi-wires
maybe. Something about it just doesnt jive IMHO. I'll try it that way this weekend, though |
Mfsoa
My point exactly! electricity follows the path of least resistance. ALWAYS. A network I think, has more resistance than brass plates. using the plates should, if they are connected internally via a net, would short out, or by pass the net. They make no sense if they are necessary to connect the bottom drivers... or anything else for that matter. given there is internal wiring....
Additionally, given a network can employ caps, they allow for directional flow of electricity... The plates on both posts make the appearance of one connecting spot. Either top or bottom... either should suffice, electrically. BUT an internal net would be defeated using the plates, were they wired internally, and connected to the associated posts as well. It's one or the other. both shouldn't work, irrispective of the other.. and surely not together... JR's are confusing.... but I do know something about electricity. Electricity does the same thinhg everywhere, with everything... even if it's made in China.
Albert's a pretty smart guy... I doubt he'd add posts that serve no purpose and intimate a connection to a driver, as is the industry norm. It's counterproductive, and 'un-intuitive'. |
the results are in... the idea about the upper bass driver not functioning off the BM's upper post is accurate. I'm still in awe... I am sure big enough to admit a mistake... I need to now, and I apologize for any issues I may have caused.
Who'd have thunk it?. Although what I posted above previously, is/was in fact the info given me and what I didd... I can only think that I must have left the sub on during the testing... but it's TRUE. THERE IS NO SOUND TO BE HAD FROM THE TOP DRIVER IN THE BASS CABINET BY USING THE 'INTUITIVE' CONNECTIONS (or upper posts on the cab), AND I'M SURE SOMEONE HAD A GOOD LAUGH ABOUT THAT. I know I did... shortly after the discovery. Amazing!
...and thanks for telling me. The good news is I used another pair of those gizmos to make the bi-wires into standard ones and hooked the Sig 10's solely to the TM. after some short time of stridently etched sound, (further proof the driver was not presenting a load), as the second leg of the biwire ran in some more. The sound became quite interesting. I am more than pleased with the TM's performance now... BUT there is a disparity down below. Although improving, the bass no longer is quite at the level of performance as the top & mid. I'm gonna attribute that to using a step down in speaker cables from the Sig 10's. So in fact I do have a pair of wires to put on the block so to speak... anyone got a pair of 15 - 16 ft. Sig 10 X2 actives for sale? Geeezzzz.
I do appreciate the input, however. I do apologize again for my errant info. It was not meant to mislead or cause harm in any way shape or form. Just shows to go ya, even at higher levels some folks are occasionally a bit off the mark.
BTW... the plates are still off. I've hooked to the lowest posts only with the Alpha Quad actives. |
