Signal or load required for break-in?


Have new Odyssey Stratos monoblock amps shipping soon. Unfortunately, we will be moving shortly, and I'll probably delay gratification and not take on the major project necessary to remove, shuffle and rewire the entire audio/HT set-up I have stuffed into our entertainment center. (I hate that thing and will be purchasing a rotating audio rack(AVRack) for the relocation also.) If I take the new amps, plug them in to power, but don't run a source signal through them, (or obviously load them with two speakers), can several weeks of break-in time be acheived? What, if any, benefit might I realize? Thanks.
tvc15

Showing 3 responses by sean

Aragain, i think that TVC knows that and was just "having fun" at Al's expense.

As to my comment about "breaking in" gear exclusively with David Bowie tunes, "TVC 15" is the name of one of his songs. I didn't want someone else that didn't know that to think that i was SERIOUSLY recommending that : ) Sean
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While i basically agree with Bob's comments / approach, i will add that internal components / circuitry WILL settle "somewhat" simply due to bias voltage and heat being present. While i would always prefer to break something in under load, just letting SS components "idle" can "ease" some of the break in time.

My suggestion is to connect some 16 ohm resistors across the speaker jacks and turn the unit on and leave it on. After you've had the unit on for 36 - 48 hours, turn the unit off and leave it off for a few hours. Then fire it back up, run for several hours or a day, etc.. then turn it off and let it heat down again. Do this as often as you think about it. This will thermally cycle the unit and subject all of the circuitry to what is called "in-rush current" every time you cycle the unit off and on. It should help to speed up the process once you really do begin to use it. Sean
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First of all, you need to play ALL David Bowie tunes when breaking something in.... : )

If you're going to feed a signal into the amp, you will need WAY higher power resistors than what i was thinking. My suggestions were based on letting the unit idle with no signal applied. I specified 16 ohm resistors as this would decrease the current delivery from the amp if a stray RF based signal "wandered" into the amp and was amplified. I should have also stated that inserting "shunts" into the amplifier inputs might be a good idea also.

If you are going to feed the signal from a receiver into the amp, the receiver would have to have preamp level outputs on it. DO NOT hook up the "tape out" to the input of the amp as it would smoke the load resistors that you install.

Secondly, you would need to hook up several low power resistors in parallel to handle a reasonable amount of power or just pick up two high power resistors. Contrary to popular belief, wire wound or "inductive" resistors are FINE for an audio dummy load. After all, the amplifier would be driving BIG inductors in a normal speaker system ( voice coils, crossover coils, etc...). Look for something that is rated for at least 10 watts apiece or rig up some 5 watters in parallel or series ( depending on what value you get ).

If you want specifics on part numbers, etc.. let me know. I'll do what i can to give you a list. Just make sure that the receiver does have the proper jacks before doing anything else. Sean
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