Should I buy a Class A Amp.

Hi Don

I have owed a couple of KSA 200's and would have to admit I think the sound is great, but I have a slightly strange setup/situation a large room high ceiling thick stone walls and not very efficient loudspeakers (Linn Isobarik - passive)
The problem with these amps is they are now getting on a bit, if you can find one in good useable condition it is likely to be expensive. I agree with some of the other views expressed that the ones worth having were the KSA series, if you have to go through a recapping procedure as I tried to, I found it difficult to find someone to supply the correct grade of capacitors and the cost of them alone was going to be over £1500.00 here in the UK plus labour and possibly other parts being required as well.
I rather reluctantly at first replaced it with a Mark Levinson No. 532 Amp, this is not class A but I have been very pleased with it indeed.
For me it does all that the Krell did and a lot more and has the added advantage that you are not generating the same amount of heat either, I was told that my KSA200 was sucking 2.2Kw of power when just turned on!
The Levinson runs much much cooler I personally find the sound at least if not more powerful that the Krell but with even more detail, I just can't recommend it highly enough.
If you want real grunt with great detail and a fine sound it's the way to go in my book!

Matthew Lewis 

Hi don..you're probably overwhelmed with all the responses to your question. .I've been on the same journey with my audio gear..my first setup was a really old yamaha integrated with some phase tech speakers. .then I bought a old used onix amplifier and some rega ela loud speaker's. .I was interested in tube amps having grown up around them so I had the good fortune of doing a demo in my home for a week..the best way to buy audio gear in my opinion. I bought a used cary sli80. It sounds awesome and looks cool as hell..you can get a smoking deal on them and they are really versatile. .you can run many power tubes and run it in 40 or 80 watt mode,I rolled the capacitors in mine and wow what a difference. .that's my two cents. Best of luck!

the only way I would go class A is if you need an extra room heater. 

I am no rocket scientist here, but my suggestion would be fairly high-power A/B tube amps, 100 WPC, aided by a s/s Class D amp in each of the bottom end or sub-woofs, rolling off at about 100 Hz.. The Class Ds take all the heavy lifting away from the toobs, which can run quietly, coolly, and never leave Class A and can be run at fairly low bias. I defy anyone who says you need to run Class A all the way down to 30 Hz. All in, I'm only pulling about 6.8 amps from the wall. And that's only when I'm entertaining the entire neighbourhood. By all means, By all means, dedicate a circuit breaker of 20 amps and a manual-reset GFCI. I run a pair of Tylers at 4 ohms and have never blown a 3 amp fuse. Never had better sound, either.

Could it be said that Class A amps, like Pass for example, play better on certain types of music? Better classical than rock, for instance?

As mentioned earlier, no.

The idea that an amp can be better at one form of music as opposed to another is one of the bigger audio myths out there.