Recommend location and type for kitchen speakers

~~~Hi, Is there any room above cabinets or do you have soffits above,(a convenient space not usually considered)? Albert is definitely correct about spreading sound around to keep it even throughout the room. Have you considered a subwoofer in a out of the way locale to free up speaker size considerations? How about a sub, self contained midrange, ribbon tweeter, and your own crossovers.
The mids can be located more easily without trying to fit a box. The ribbons are small enough to blend in to decor. You must be creative if WAF in interjected into the scenario.
~~~If you have cold seasons or are in a high humidity region, the ceiling thing, if not done properly, might cause a mold or wood dry rot situation. What is the layout of your kitchen area and ceiling height?
~~~~One other thing, (This is from experience) Install seperate 20 amp lines. I put 7 separate 20 A. lines in my kitchen (not counting stove 30 A. and dishwasher). You would be surprised how fast one runs out of capacity during a gathering. Microwave, coffee pot(s), electric roaster(s), crock pot(s), blender..... It is easy while the wall is opened up, and inexpensive, if you pulled your own permit and do the wiring yourself.
~~~~What was the topic, Was I rambling again? Oh yeah! Kitchen speakers. I think I plowed too much snow today! Yes, I was using my tractor and not my car!
~~~~ OK DEAR-- time to pray with and tuck the children in bed. Hope I didn't bend your ear too much!

~~~~Ah, You have a two story home. Thats another story!(sorry) If your home was built recently, you may have anywhere from a 7 to 11 inch space above the drywall, and joists spaced 12" to 24" apart. The joists that support a drywall ceiling in a one story home are a minimum of 2"x6". A two story home joists need to be thicker to support the added pounds per square foot load. Depending when the home was built, the span the joist must cover, and what was code at the time, would determine how thick of a floor/ceiling space you have.
~~~~Carefully probe through the drywall in a area that is not noticeable (next to a cabinet). Start with a pointed, small diameter tool. Do not go more than 5/8" in(thickness of fire code drywall). Then with a dull insulated probing tool, could use a piece of solid romex 15" long, or something non conductive and thin, gently push it up until it hits the floor of the second story. Hopefully you won't hit the joist on the first try. If you have a stud finder (not the kind at a bar) you can avoid a joist the first time. You may also tap with your knuckle and listen for a solid/hollow sound. Solid=joist, hollow=space.
~~~~Depending on which way your kitchen is oriented to the joists and interior walls, will determine the difficulty of the wiring. Only use wire rated for in wall use. Since you are not building a reference system, sonic quality of the wire is not a factor.
~~~~If all factors are favorable to ceiling speakers the next factor is which speaker to use. That will determine how you mount and support the speaker. I wouldn't use the drywall only to support the load. You should build a type of solid support inside the space to carry the load and not allow the speaker to vibrate. If an open back unit is selected, you may want to limit the volume of the space by inserting some type of partition and caulk to seal air space. If you have room you may want to install some bookshelf cabinets (wire, support, and trim out surface).
~~~~Is this starting to sound like a walkman would do nicely? Think about these ideas. Hopefully they will give you more options or spark more suggestions from others (other than things like, "Is this guy writing a novel or what!") My typing finger needs a rest. Remember, music soothes the savage beets (I had to!).

~~~~If you want to get the most out of a non reference system, use a graphic equalizer. You can tweak the sound to your liking. Tried many speaker position combinations to find pros and cons. The in front in wall set up 18"-24" away, 6'-8'apart, should give you pronounced bass, exagerated seperation with less front center stage, more of an overhead center effect. Almost like you had a pair of headphones on. Behind you would tend to have less seperation, clarity, and depending on room resonances thin bass or heavy bass. Keep in mind a hidden, inexpensive sub if you aren't satisfied with the bass.

~~~~ The in front bookshelf would give you the ability to adjust toe in/out. Should be secured and also be visually acceptable. Do you have access to(borrow)some small speakers to try front and behind. Sonically, should be the same as in wall(separation/center stage).

~~~~Table radios? Haven't listened to any lately. There are many commercials for the (shh, nobody listen!) Bose wave guide table radio. Try a demo, maybe they can make a decent table radio. Another name that comes to mind is Kloss. Had Zenith, tubed, table radio in the 60's, nice sound!

~~~~ If you go with the on/in wall/ceiling setup, a remote controller is nice. The source could be placed in a cabinet, pantry, or some out of the way location.
~~~~ How far are you from radio stations? I'm in Michigan out in the boonies, use an amplifier on a rabbit eared antenna. Pick up FM from Canada, Ohio, as well as many in state stations. (This is off subject, with this setup on TV, I have watched stations from PA.,OH., CAN., and one day last summer, after a storm, a station from Louisiana came in clear as day for 5 minutes on Ch.3?KDKJ? Didn't write it down. Must have skipped off the atmosphere.)

~~~~Anybody else on wiring? Might have to get my NEC code book out if no replies.

~~~~Shucks, hope I didn't cornfuse you by bending your ear. (Sorry again)