I have a Krell FPB600 that I just put a Transparent 20a PC on it and was amazed at the improvement. I never really thought PC's could make much of a difference. The captive cord could be better than the non-captive that was on my FPB600 though.
Hope this is a little help.
Good listening,
Mike |
Since mine isn't a captive cord it was no problem. I have a dedicated line for the amp with 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp breaker. Changing from the 20a to 30a breaker made a bit of a difference, but not as much as the cable. I also added a Wattgate 381 Gold outlet, which was a further improvement, almost as much as the cable. So you might want to forget the cable and add a Wattgate outlet. Just for comparison, I had a PS Audio Power Outlet before the Wattgate. The Wattgate was definitely worth the price. |
My understanding is that the 10 gauge wire will handle the 30a. As for the outlet and cord, unless the amp is drawing 30a, which it doesn't, then no harm. Now if the amp decides to short out, there could be an issue. That's why what I'm doing is not up to code. With normal operation, there is no heat at the outlet or plug, so all is well. |
I forgot to mention that outlets and cords are labeled according to the type of slot or plug, not necessarily what amperage they can handle. A true 30 amp outlet will have a different slot pattern and require a different plug on the cord. This is to stop someone from plugging in a lamp or something in a 30 amp outlet. 30 amp outlets generally will be wired for 220 volts and that would do all the things that the electrical people are telling you. But what really decides how much current they can handle is the effective gauge of wire. I would say that the heavier made Wattgate, and probable the one you are looking at, will handle more than 20 amps due to the heavier construction compared to a regular household outlet. Same with the power cord. If the effective gauge of the cord is 10 or more, then it should handle the current even into a dead short. The audiophile cords have heavier plugs and should be able to handle 30 amps for a little while, and they only need to be able to hang in there long enough to throw the breaker. Something that won't happen unless you have a dead short at the amp.
At least that's my understanding, and my outlet, plug, and amp are all cool and fine. No sign of melting. |
Yes, the 30a breaker did improve the sound, and I've checked the outlet and cord plugs from time to time to make sure there is no heat build up. It wasn't a huge improvement, but was an easily heard improvement. So I think it is worthwhile. The electrical people will probably never tell anyone it would be ok for fear of some sort of liability if something did happen. And fire could be an issue, but I would think only under some kind of extreme conditions. It's just not to the lowest common denominator electrical codes.
I haven't noticed if my amp runs cooler, because I didn't know that could be a possibility, but now that I think of it, it could be a bit cooler than normal.
Hope this helps some.
Mike |
Hi Audiolabyrinth, I've been running it this way for about 6-8 months. And I would say that it's more than a 5% improvement. I also did not get anything special in the breaker, just a regular one, and I could easily hear the difference. The amp is the only thing that I have ever had on that line, so I don't know if that makes any difference. This was before I installed the Wattgate outlet, while I was still using the Power Port too.
There is another dedicated line for my source components that has a 20a breaker on it, but I want to upgrade the Power Port outlet for that line too.
Good listening,
Mike |
Hi Audiolabyrinth,
For some reason my last post hasn't shown up, so this might end up showing up twice.
I've been using the 30A breaker for 6-8 months, and have not see or felt any problems. Power Port did get mildly warm to the touch, just enough to tell it was warmer than the wall, but the Wattgate has remained cool. The Krell PC plug, but not the cable, would get warm like the Power Port, but the Transparent I'm using now is cool always. So I think the weak link was the Power Port, but it still was fine. It wasn't like it ever got hot. I would make sure you have a good quality outlet in place before installing the 30A breaker.
I plan on installing a Wattgate in the outlet for my source components too, but I doubt that I will bother putting a 30A breaker on that line.
Good listening,
Mike |
Check out my virtual system to see pics and description, and let me now how it goes. I listen a lot less this time of year, so I don't get to enjoy my system as much as I do in the cooler months. The big Krell just puts out a bit too much heat, and I find myself outside more too.
Good Listening,
Mike |
Audiolabyrinth, thanks for the kind words. It's been a long journey to this point, and almost everything along the way was purchased used. The only exception is my TT/arm/cartridge, which were all purchased new. Also my latest Krell Phantom III was purchased new, and was the first new pre for me since the 1970's when I had a db Systems 1A, I think it was.
This system, with the custom Xovers which I built for my Diva's, is the first time that I have felt like I have an awesome system instead of just a good system. I'm listening now to a Simply Vinyl copy of "Tommy" and it's sort of like listening to it for the first time, even though I've had a copy since it was release in the 60's. It's amazing how much information is in those tiny grooves, and how much can be lost without a truly highly resolving system, yet still be enjoyable. But when you start getting most of what's there out of the disc, it's like another world.
What's your system like? Do you use a Krell pre with your 700's? I've found that the Krell pre and amp combination has a synergy that makes them better together than used alone in a system. |
To Wadia150: Unless you are deaf, you can easily hear the difference that good cables make, whether you change it "instantly" or over a period of time. The result with good power cords, interconnects, and speaker connectors can be easily heard in a decent system. You either have never tried good cables, or have a system so lofi that you can't hear a difference when you do try. And by the way, spend some money on some English and or spelling lessons. You'll be way happier.
Hey Audiolabyrinth, I am not sure of the actual price of the cables I'm using, as most were picked up as used or demo pieces. New they were in the $2-3k range I think.
The Transparent Power Isolator made a BIG difference in the sound. Bigger and deeper sound stage, and a blacker background.
Good listening,
Mike |
The Phantom III is only $5500, but it does not have CAST, and I got it without the digital section. Since my FPB600 doesn't have a CAST input, I figured I could go that route without losing a lot. For your system the Phantom I or II, would be what I would look at, or a 202, maybe. The III can be had with a Digital section which I did not get. I listen mostly to vinyl and the digital section can be added at any time. So I decided to wait on that to keep costs down.
From what I understand, the Esoteric can't be beat, but I think it may be the most expensive out there too. If it were me, I would be spending that money on a Phono/Pre/Cables instead of a big player, but I understand that everyone's tastes are different. I just almost always prefer vinyl.
Sounds like you are building a truly magnificent system. Hope it all works out for you.
Good listening,
Mike |
Agreed. I'm still adding Transparent PC's to the rest of my system with good effect. I now have Transparent between the wall and amp, between the wall and my power conditioner (which powers my source components), and between the power conditioner and my pre. Although a lower level cord is currently on the pre, I want to get a higher level cord for the pre and also add one to my phono amp. |
Currently I have a PLMM (w/MM2) on the pre, and a PLS (w/MM) between the wall and the power conditioner. I have a Transparent Power Isolator 4 on the way and will let you know how it compares to the PS Audio Premier that I'm now using.
I also use Transparent Ultra XL speaker cables. |
